There is a triangle of water in the southern Ionian that ruins every other sailing ground in the Mediterranean for the people who have spent serious time inside it. Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca sit within roughly 30 nautical miles of each other, connected by passages that rarely exceed two hours at displacement speed, sheltered by mountain ranges that blunt the worst of the summer winds, and studded with anchorages of a quality that makes you genuinely reluctant to pull up the hook. This Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is written entirely from the water — from first approach to last stern line — because that is the only perspective that matters to us at Nautiful.
Reading the Weather Before You Leave the Marina
The Ionian’s great gift to the motorboater is the absence of the Meltemi. Unlike the more easterly parts of Greece, the Ionian area is not greatly affected by the forceful Meltemi winds. What you get instead is the Maistro, also known locally as the Maestral: the dominant summer wind is a predictable, mild thermal breeze that picks up in the late morning and vanishes by sunset, ensuring calm seas and perfect conditions for sailing. Starting from late May until the conclusion of September, this wind originates from the North West and sweeps down onto the Ionian Islands, typically picking up during the early afternoon ranging from Force 3–6 on the Beaufort scale, and subsiding as the evening approaches.
The practical implication for motorboaters is simple: depart early. Leave your berth by 08:00 and you will cross most passages in mirror-flat conditions. The prevailing winds are NW, between F1–2 in the mornings and F3–4 in the afternoons. There is one specific local wind worth a separate note: the anabatic wind, nicknamed “Eric,” should be noted when trying to enter Vasiliki at the southernmost tip of Lefkada, which rolls in from midday onwards and can go from F1 to F5+ in a matter of minutes. Equally important: the west coast of the outer islands such as Lefkada and Kefalonia should be avoided — unless in a secure mooring — as the prevailing winds can pick up during the night and offer virtually no shelter. Run your westward excursions as day trips, and always have an eastern anchorage booked for nightfall.
For passage planning, the Nautiful team recommends loading the Navionics+ Adriatic & Ionian Seas subscription on your chartplotter before you clear the marina. The app delivers continuous chart updates and the Sonar Chart depth data in this region is excellent for identifying that critical 4-metre contour before you commit to an unfamiliar bay. It is, unambiguously, the most efficient chart solution for covering the whole southern Ionian triangle in a single season.
Lefkada: The Canal Approach and the East Coast Sequence
Most motorboaters arrive at Lefkada from the north, which means navigating the canal. When approaching from the north, you will pass through the Lefkada Canal, a shallow dredged channel that connects the lagoon to the open sea near Aktion. Pay close attention to the channel markers — depths can be limited, and local knowledge or an up-to-date pilot book is strongly recommended for a first-time approach. Once through, the famous floating bridge awaits: it opens only at scheduled times throughout the day to allow vessels to pass, so if you are arriving from the north or planning to depart northward, you must time your passage carefully to align with the bridge opening schedule. The bridge operates on VHF Channel 12 during night hours for emergencies, but the bridge opens for 10–15 minutes or practically until the waiting vessels have passed; during the night (23:00–07:00) it will open upon request on VHF Channel 12 if a vessel is waiting, but don’t count on it.
Your primary base option is D-Marin Lefkas Marina, which sits immediately south of the canal. The total capacity of the marina is 620 berths up to a maximum length of 45 metres and a draft of 4 metres. Contact the marina via VHF upon arrival on Channel 69, and expect depths alongside of generally 3–5 metres with stern-to berthing on laid moorings. Facilities include fuel, water, shore power, lift and repair services. Pre-booking a berth here in July and August is not a suggestion — it is a necessity. Use a reputable marina booking platform to secure your slot before departing your home port.
For those who prefer to anchor on the east coast rather than pay marina rates, the sequence runs south from the town. Nidri is fast becoming the sailing and watersports centre for Lefkas and has good shopping for provisions and many waterfront tavernas. It is busy and a little chaotic, but the provisioning is practical and the dinghy landing is easy. Push further south and you reach the calmer option: Vlicho Bay’s calm waters and excellent protection from all wind directions make it one of the safest anchorages in the Ionian, even during strong blows, popular among cruisers for extended stays thanks to its easy anchoring, good holding, and proximity to yacht services. Along the shore you will find tavernas, small shops and repair facilities, while Nidri is only a short dinghy ride away for more extensive provisioning.
In the southeast, Sivota Bay is a well-sheltered inlet with calm waters and good holding, surrounded by tavernas that often offer mooring lines if you dine there, and is ideal for overnight stays. Anchor in 5–8 metres over sand and mud, and take the dinghy ashore to choose your restaurant — they will wave you in from the water’s edge.
Kefalonia: Fiskardo in the North, Antisamos and Sami on the East
Running south from Lefkada with 15–20 knots of Maistro on your quarter, Fiskardo appears after approximately 18 nautical miles — the northernmost point of Kefalonia and one of the most photographed harbours in the entire Ionian. Unlike the lion’s share of Kefalonia, Fiskardo was spared by the 1953 earthquake and the port has retained its traditional Italianate architecture; deservedly a particularly popular port.
On approach: approach Fiskardo at 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E — free of dangers — the lighthouse on the N side of the entrance is easily identified and will guide you to the bay. For berthing, along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks, though holding is only moderate in sand and some weed so make sure your anchor is well dug in. Alternatively, go stern or bows-to the quay where space is available, except the SW corner which is reserved for local fishing boats. Space is genuinely tight in peak season — arrive before midday or anchor in the bay and take the tender in.
Continuing south, Assos Bay offers perhaps the most spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay; the surrounding cliffs provide complete wind protection, though space is limited to around 10–12 yachts, and the bay maintains consistent depths of 4–8 metres with excellent holding in sand and weed. Note that Assos is only suitable in lighter air; the anchorage quickly becomes untenable in rougher conditions, certainly in northerlies.
On Kefalonia’s east coast, the anchorage at Antisamos Bay is one of the great motor-boat rewards of the southern Ionian — a spot most tourists reach only by land, but which you can drop anchor in front of for a swim stop. The colours of the sea in this bay are often described as a “tropical palette” — from milky turquoise in the shallows, to light blue, to deep blue in the depths. The bottom shelves sharply, so approach bow-on from due east, and anchor in 4–8 metres over mixed sand and weed before the shelf drops away. From here, Sami is a straightforward 4-nautical-mile run: Argostoli provides the most developed berthing facilities on Kefalonia with extensive town quay berthing and a municipal marina area; berthing is stern-to or alongside with depths typically 3–3.5 metres alongside, and the port supports approximately 200+ berths with access to water, electricity, fuel, sanitary facilities, chandlery and technical services.
Ithaca: Entering Vathy and Working North to Kioni
The crossing from Fiskardo to Ithaca’s north tip is barely 3 nautical miles. But the island repays a far slower approach. Vathy, meaning “deep,” the main harbour and administrative centre of Ithaca, lies at the head of one of the most naturally sheltered bays in the Ionian Sea. The island is deeply indented, with the principal harbour at Vathi situated at the head of a long, enclosed inlet on the east side.
Enter the inlet on a roughly south-westerly heading and follow the shore around into the harbour. Vathi provides anchoring in 5–10 metres over mud with reliable holding and high shelter from all directions. Be aware that the quay area requires focus: at night and early in the morning, incoming and outbound ferries generate a high level of noise and a lot of swell — so position yourself as far from the ferry dock as the anchorage allows. Vathy has the most reliable services on Ithaca — water, fuel, small supermarket and chandlery. There is a fuel station at Mylos in Vathy for diesel, water and lubricants.
North of Vathy, the route to Kioni is one of the great short passages of this whole Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca circuit. The 8 nautical miles along Ithaca’s east coast reward you with vertical green cliffs, complete absence of tourist infrastructure, and the crescendo arrival into Kioni itself. One of the most picturesque harbours in Ithaca — a deep natural bay framed by ruined windmills and amphitheatrically-tiered colourful houses — Kioni sits on the north-east coast of Ithaca about 4 NM south of Frikes, the bay opening gently between wooded slopes and revealing a compact waterfront village that has the visual charm sailors come for and the practical shelter overnight crews need.
The mooring practicalities at Kioni require technique. Yachts moor at the quay bow-to or stern-to at a water depth of 2.5 to 10 metres; the steeply sloped seabed means it makes sense to use a long chain. Drop plenty of chain because the prevailing NW wind will be perpendicular to your boat, adding strain to the anchor; the seabed is sand with good holding. Kioni is safe in the prevailing NW conditions, but the afternoon does bring some strong NW gusts that make mooring either stern-to on the quay or long-lined to the cliffs challenging with a crosswind. The sensible strategy: arrive by 14:00 — Kioni fills early, and late arrivals find themselves anchored further out with a longer dinghy ride. Skip Kioni entirely if an east or southeast wind is forecast — the bay opens east, and a SE blow makes an overnight stay uncomfortable to dangerous.
For dinner ashore, there are several tavernas on the seafront including Mills, Calypso and Lizzy’s. The Mythos Taverna, sitting directly above the harbour wall, is a long-standing Kioni classic reachable in two minutes by tender — fresh fish, mezze platters, and a view down over your own boat riding at anchor. Rarely does a restaurant earn its reputation so completely from the approach.
The Passage Plan: Putting the Circuit Together
The beauty of the southern Ionian triangle — what makes this Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca so rewarding to execute — is the flexibility of its distances. No leg is more than 25 nautical miles. The standard circuit, which the Nautiful team has run in both directions, works as follows:
- Day 1: D-Marin Lefkas Marina (fuel, water, provisioning) → passage south-east to Vlicho Bay or Sivota. Depart by 08:30; arrival before the afternoon Maistro builds.
- Day 2: Sivota → Fiskardo (18 NM, roughly 1.5 hours at 12 knots). Arrive by 11:30 to secure a stern-to berth before the daily wave of charter boats.
- Day 3: Day trip to Assos by tender from Fiskardo (5 NM each way), or motor down to anchor off Antisamos Bay for a swim stop before continuing into Sami for the night.
- Day 4: Sami → Vathy, Ithaca (12 NM). Anchor in the bay, collect supplies ashore, and rest early.
- Day 5: Vathy → Kioni (8 NM north along the east coast). Arrive by 13:30 at the absolute latest. Dinghy ashore for a long dinner.
- Day 6: Kioni → Fiskardo (3 NM) → canal north to D-Marin Lefkas Marina, timing the bridge opening.
For charter skippers looking to book this circuit, dedicated Ionian charter bases operate out of both D-Marin Lefkas and the Fiskardo area, with fleets ranging from Princess V40 day-cruisers up to Azimut 55s for those who want full flybridge comfort on overnight passages. Booking through a specialist Ionian charter service rather than a generic platform will get you local knowledge on fuel dock hours, bridge schedules and which berths are actually available in August — knowledge that no app fully replicates.
Fuel, Provisioning and the Practicalities That Actually Matter
Fuel strategy in this triangle is straightforward if you plan it explicitly. Marine diesel is available at Lefkada Town via a fixed fuel berth and road tanker delivery directly to quay or marina berths. At Fiskardo, the fuel dock is at the entrance to the harbour and can be reached from either side of the pontoon. In Ithaca, the supply of water and fuel is arranged after consultation with private providers; there is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy for fuel, lubricants and water. There is no fuel at Kioni — top up in Fiskardo or Sami before making that northward run.
For provisioning, the hierarchy is clear. Stock up in Lefkada Town or Nidri; small markets are scattered throughout the island but have limited selection. On Kefalonia, Argostoli has the only regular open market activity on the island — a weekly street market where local vendors sell seasonal fruit, vegetables, olives, honey and regional products, with permanent greengrocers and deli-style shops operating daily. Sami and Fiskardo have supermarkets adequate for a short passage but not for a full restock. On Ithaca, Vathy has the most reliable services including a small supermarket; Kioni has minimarkets and a bakery, but treat them as top-up stops only.
The exceptional water clarity throughout this region, often exceeding 30 metres’ visibility, allows you to see your anchor and assess the seabed conditions easily — one of those details that rewards experienced anchoring technique and makes the whole circuit feel safe and legible in a way that the Aegean, for all its drama, rarely does.
Why This Circuit Earns Its Reputation
The southern Ionian is not a secret. But the way it presents itself to a motorboat skipper — the early morning glass, the mid-morning passages, the afternoon anchorages tucked behind headlands while the Maistro whistles past offshore — is something that land-based travel writing simply cannot capture. The shape of the southern Ionian, sheltered by its largest islands Lefkas and Kefalonia, means that you are almost always running in flat water. Many of Ithaca’s best anchorages are accessible only by boat, rewarding crews with clear water, quiet surroundings, and dramatic landscapes rather than organised facilities.
This is what this Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca has always been for the Nautiful team: not a checklist of famous places, but a set of precise, practical coordinates for moments that only happen when you arrive by water. The floating bridge at dawn. A bows-to berth at Fiskardo with a cold Mythos and the pastel Venetian facades turning gold in the evening light. Anchored off Antisamos with the boat sitting perfectly still, turquoise