Why the Southern Ionian Rewards Every Motorboater
Pull the throttle back and let the bow settle. Ahead of you, Lefkada’s limestone peaks dissolve into haze, Kefalonia’s dark spine rises to port, and somewhere beyond the Ithaca Channel, Homer’s island waits at the end of a long, glittering fetch. This triangle of water — compact enough to cover in a week, complex enough to reward a lifetime — is the beating heart of Greek motorboating. Our Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is written entirely from the helm. No bus routes, no package holidays. Just approaches, anchorages, fuel docks, and the taverna your dinghy can reach by 20:00.
The bottom line for motorboaters: The Ionian Sea in the west of Greece is not affected by the Etesian winds that pummel the Aegean, but experiences a reliable Maistro wind throughout the sailing season. The primary summer wind is the Maistros (Maestro), a north-westerly sea breeze that builds gently around midday, peaks in the afternoon at Force 3–5, and dies down by sunset. For a motorboat, that rhythm is perfect: glass-flat mornings for long passages at cruise speed, a bit of chop and spray in the afternoon, then a mirror-calm evening at anchor. Run your passages early. Swim at noon. Eat ashore at nine.
Planning Your Approach: Charts, Seasons and Passage Notes
Before you leave the dock, get your charts right. The Navionics Boating App with the Adriatic & Ionian Sea subscription is the Nautiful Team’s first choice for this cruising ground — it sits on your chartplotter or tablet, updates via SonarChart community data, and gives you harbour plans with actual depth contours rather than generalised symbols. For a back-up paper chart, the Imray G12 South Ionian Islands covers the ground beautifully. It includes detailed harbour plans for the Lefkada Canal, Kefalonia, and Ithaca, and combines the latest official survey data with first-hand information gathered by Rod and Lucinda Heikell. Carry both.
Season matters. Peak season runs July through August with the highest prices and crowds. Shoulder season offers better value with pleasant conditions from May to October. The Nautiful Team’s sweet spot is mid-June and September: the Maistros is settled, the anchorages are not yet rammed, and you can actually get a berth in Fiskardo before 14:00. The shape of the southern Ionian, sheltered by its largest islands — Lefkada and Kefalonia — means you’re almost always sailing in flat water. That is transformative on a motorboat. You can carry speed without punishment.
For marina bookings, particularly at D-Marin Lefkas in July and August, reserve ahead. Walk-in arrivals in peak season risk a long wait on the town quay or an uncomfortable berth on the causeway wall.
Lefkada: Threading the Canal, Working the Eastern Shore
Arriving from the north, your first challenge is the Lefkada Canal itself. When approaching from the north, you will pass through the Lefkada Canal, a shallow, dredged channel that connects the lagoon to the open sea near Aktion. Pay close attention to the channel markers — depths can be limited, and local knowledge or an up-to-date pilot book is strongly recommended for a first-time approach. Throughout the channel the depth is about 3.5 metres, so even larger boats will have no problems — provided you stay within the markers.
The floating bridge is the critical timing constraint. The floating bridge is one of the most talked-about features of this marina approach. It opens only at scheduled times throughout the day to allow vessels to pass between the southern and northern sections of the lagoon. If you are arriving from the north or planning to depart northward, you must time your passage carefully to align with the bridge opening schedule. Theoretically, during the night between 23:00 and 07:00, the bridge will open upon request on VHF Channel 12 if a vessel is waiting — but don’t count on it.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas is your base of operations. The total capacity of the marina is 620 berths up to a maximum length of 45 metres and a draft of 4 metres, with 280 dry berths. Contact the marina via VHF on channel 69 upon arrival and go to the office to process check-in paperwork. Facilities include fuel, water, shore power, lift, and repair services. For motorboats on a coastal cruise, this is an excellent reprovisioning hub before heading south.
Down the eastern shore, the anchorage at Vlicho Bay is a revelation for motorboaters who want peace. Vlicho is a long, sheltered, natural bay on the eastern coast of Lefkada, just south of Nidri. Its calm waters and excellent protection from all wind directions make it one of the safest anchorages in the Ionian, even during strong blows. The bay is popular among cruisers for extended stays thanks to its easy anchoring, good holding, and proximity to yacht services. Along the shore, you’ll find tavernas, small shops, and repair facilities, while Nidri is only a short dinghy ride away for more extensive provisioning. Drop the hook, launch the tender, and run north for dinner at Basilico in Nidri — it offers a variety of Greek fish and meat dishes in a charming tavern setting — or head for the Vlicho Yacht Club waterfront deck for sundowners with the charter fleet crowd.
The Ithaca Channel Crossing and Kefalonia
The run south from Lefkada to Fiskardo is one of the finest motor passages in the Mediterranean — about 22 nautical miles of deep, clear water with Kefalonia building ahead of you and Ithaca materialising to starboard. The Ithaca Channel is deep and clear with depths 50–150 metres mid-channel, shoaling to 20–40 metres within 1 NM of either coast. Wind acceleration and short seas occur with NW winds, particularly in the northern entrance. Leave Lefkada by 08:30, hit the channel before the Maistros builds, and you’ll be nosing into Fiskardo’s harbour by lunch.
Fiskardo is the jewel of northern Kefalonia. Unlike the lion’s share of Kefalonia, Fiskardo was spared by the 1953 earthquake and the port has retained its traditional Italianate architecture — deservedly a particularly popular port. Approach coordinates are 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E, WGS84. The approach is free of dangers and the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified, guiding you straight into the bay. Be alert though: watch out for ferries that often pass at fairly high speeds and are not visible from a distance because of the lay of the coast.
Berthing options at Fiskardo range from the breakwater, where depths run 3.5–4 metres, to anchoring in the northern bay. Along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks. Holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in. With only about 25 berths available and making good use of all available moorings, it is difficult to find a berth in high and very high season. Arrive before 13:00, or plan to anchor off and tender in. In peak season, arrive early for quay spots at Fiskardo and Agia Efimia.
Further south, the theatrical anchorage at Assos deserves a detour. Assos Bay offers perhaps the most spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay. The surrounding cliffs provide complete wind protection, though space is limited to around 10–12 yachts. The bay maintains consistent depths of 4–8 metres with excellent holding in sand and weed. Note that Assos is only suitable in lighter air — the anchorage quickly becomes untenable in rougher conditions, certainly in northerlies. Use it as a lunch stop on a calm morning and press on to Fiskardo or Agia Efimia for the night.
For fuel and serious provisioning on Kefalonia, Argostoli is the only real answer. Sami and Argostoli offer the broadest services: fuel, water, supermarkets, and ATMs. Argostoli provides the most comprehensive provisioning on Kefalonia, with major supermarkets including AB Vasilopoulos, Lidl, and Sklavenitis. The approach into the Gulf of Argostoli is straightforward but watch for ferry traffic and the rebound swell that can develop in fresh north-westerlies along the exposed western shore near Myrtos.
Ithaca: Vathy, Kioni and the Anchorages Only Boats Can Reach
This is the section that separates a Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide from a travel brochure. Ithaca is one of the most distinctive sailing destinations in the Ionian, offering exceptional natural shelter within a compact and mountainous island. Its coastline is deeply indented, forming narrow bays and fjord-like inlets that provide protection in conditions where more open islands become uncomfortable.
The approach to Vathy, Ithaca’s main harbour, is a piece of theatre. The main port lies on the SE coast and is entered through a narrow, well-defined inlet. Depths reduce from 30–40 metres outside to 10–15 metres at the entrance, then 5–8 metres inside the bay. The town of Vathy cannot be identified until you sail right into the bay. The chapel and lighthouse on Ak. Ay. Andreou are easily identified and will guide you straight in. Care is needed while approaching as the prevailing winds, usually between 15:00–21:00 during the summer season, gust in from the NW. Care must also be taken regarding ferries which can appear suddenly from around the headland.
The main yacht quay extends along the SW side of the harbour between the short ferry jetty at its north end and local fishing boat moorings at its south end. The jetty is clearly marked with yellow paint along its edge and supplied with plenty of yellow bollards as well as recessed stainless steel mooring rings. Around 20 yachts can anchor-moor here in depths ranging from 4.0 metres at the north end to 3.5 metres at the south end. Go stern-to as early as you can. The holding is reasonable in soft mud and weed once the anchor is well dug in, but it can require two or three attempts. Shelter on the quay is moderately good in the prevailing NW winds but can become uncomfortable if they are of any strength.
For fuel at Vathy, there is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy providing fuel, lubricants, and water. Provisioning is easy by dinghy from the town quay — the square at the head of the harbour has bakeries, a mini-market, and several tavernas within 100 metres of your tender landing.
North of Vathy, Kioni is Ithaca’s most photogenic stop and its most competitive. The entrance is marked by the three derelict windmill turrets on the headland. Kioni is located on the northeastern coast of Ithaca and offers very good shelter. In summer, by mid-afternoon the port space is often completely taken up by boaters and charter companies based here. Town quay slots are limited, anchoring room exists for around 6–8 boats, and the bay is exposed enough that a poor forecast turns an idyllic stop into a wet night.
The timing rule at Kioni: the afternoon does bring some strong NW gusts which makes mooring stern-to on the quay, or long-lined to the cliffs, challenging with a crosswind. It’s advisable to go early, get moored up without battling the wind, and then relax while you watch other boats coming in later. Strictly avoid Kioni in easterlies or southerlies — the swell can get really big and the holding is not good enough, with the bottom weedy and anchor depths over 10 metres.
For boats drawing under a metre, the truly special anchorages on Ithaca are the unnamed coves along the east coast between Kioni and Vathy. The prevailing NW summer Maistro makes the eastern side of the island the primary cruising ground. Most harbours and anchorages are concentrated here, often requiring stern lines due to rapidly increasing depths and limited swinging room. Many of Ithaca’s best anchorages are accessible only by boat, rewarding crews with clear water and quiet surroundings. These are the places you find on Navionics that have no name on Google Maps — and that is precisely the point.
Skippers’ Briefing: What Changes Everything on a Motorboat
A few things the Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide books don’t always say clearly enough for motor-cruiser skippers:
- Stern-to is the default. Depths alongside are generally 3–5 metres with stern-to berthing on laid moorings. Stern-to mooring on laid lines is standard; handling of other vessels’ lines without permission is avoided. Motorboats with wide transoms need extra fender protection and a very accurate reverse-throttle approach, especially in a Maistros afternoon cross-breeze.
- Watch for weed on the anchor. Holding is generally good in sand and mud in the main bays, with patches of weed or rock toward the edges and near headlands. Always check set and be ready to reset if the anchor skates on weed.
- Ferry wash is real. At night and early in the morning, incoming and outbound ferries generate a high level of noise and a lot of swell at Vathy. Fend well and let out extra chain.
- Fuel planning is critical. Vasiliki has limited and less reliable fuel supply; no fuel is available at anchorages. Fill at D-Marin Lefkas or Argostoli when you have the chance. Don’t assume Fiskardo will have jerry cans available in high season.
- The Maistros timetable is your passage plan. In the Ionian in the height of summer, you can set your watch to the wind — not a breath before 11am, then a gradually building medium breeze, before the wind goes to sleep shortly before dusk. Run your longer legs before 11:00. Save the short hops for afternoon if you want company in the anchorage.
The Route: A Seven-Day Circuit from D-Marin Lefkas
This Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide distils into one clean loop. Base yourself at D-Marin Lefkas. Day one: canal transit and an evening on the town quay at Lefkada town. Day two: south to Vlicho Bay for an easy overnight in flat water. Day three: the Ithaca Channel crossing to Fiskardo — aim for arrival by 12:30 before the berths go. Day four: Fiskardo to Assos as a morning stop, then south to Agia Efimia for the night. Day five: cross to Vathy, Ithaca — one of the great harbour entries in the Mediterranean. Day six: north by tender to Kioni for lunch, then anchor in a quiet east-coast cove for the evening. Day seven: the channel crossing north back to Lefkada, with the Maistros on your quarter and nothing but flat blue water ahead.
Charterers operating out of D-Marin Lefkas will find a large fleet of motorboats ready for this exact circuit. Popular charter brands in Greece include Axopar, Saxdor, Technohull, and Azimut, with popular models including the Axopar 37 XC Cross Cabin and the Axopar 37 Sun-Top. The Axopar 37 XC in particular, with its fully enclosed, air-conditioned cabin, protects crews from sea spray and blazing sun while cutting through waves at exhilarating speeds — exactly what you want when the Ithaca Channel is doing its afternoon thing at 25 knots.
Whatever your boat, load the Navionics Adriatic & Ionian chart before you leave and cross-reference it with Imray G12. Local knowledge or an up-to-date pilot is strongly recommended for first-time approaches —