There are cruising grounds in the Mediterranean where the water turns a shade of blue that makes you question every other shade you’ve ever called blue. The southern Ionian is one of them. Sheltered from the worst of summer’s weather, studded with islands that sit close enough for comfortable day runs yet far enough apart to feel like true passages, this triangle of water between Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is arguably the finest motor-boating ground in all of Greece. This Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is written entirely from the water — because that is the only way to truly know these islands.
Why the Southern Ionian Works So Well for Motor Boats
The Ionian’s reputation among power skippers rests on one fundamental advantage: it operates on an entirely different weather system from the rest of Greece. The Ionian Sea is not a Meltemi domain; afternoon westerlies known as the Maestral are common, usually Force 3–5, making it attractive for relaxed cruising. While those aboard charter boats in the Cyclades are white-knuckling 30-knot headwinds, you’ll be sliding across a flat-calm inland sea in the morning, with a cooling breeze building gently by early afternoon.
The primary summer wind is the Maistros, a north-westerly sea breeze that builds gently around midday, peaks in the afternoon at Force 3–5, and dies down by sunset. For skippers at the helm of a planing powerboat — a Saxdor 320 GTO, an Axopar 37 Cross Top, or a Jeanneau Leader 33 — this daily rhythm is almost too good to be true. Leave your berth at 0800, run your passage in glassy conditions, find your anchorage by lunchtime, and let the afternoon breeze cool the cockpit while you’re already in the water.
The shape of the southern Ionian, sheltered by its largest islands — Lefkas and Kefalonia — means that you’re almost always sailing in flat water. That’s the quiet genius of this cruising ground: the big islands do the hard work of blocking the fetch, so the water between them rarely builds into the short, uncomfortable chop that punishes fast powerboats elsewhere in the Med.
Lefkada: The Canal Approach and D-Marin as Your Northern Base
Approaching Lefkada from the north immediately announces that this is no ordinary island. When approaching from the north, you pass through the Lefkada Canal, a shallow, dredged channel that connects the lagoon to the open sea near Aktion. The channel is dredged and buoyed with depths generally 4–6 metres, and entry is controlled by a swing bridge at Lefkada town operating on scheduled openings.
That bridge is the critical variable. It opens only at scheduled times throughout the day to allow vessels to pass, and if you are arriving from the north or planning to depart northward, you must time your passage carefully to align with the bridge opening schedule. Theoretically, during the night between 23:00 and 07:00, the bridge will open upon request on VHF Channel 12 if a vessel is waiting — but don’t count on it. Plan your arrival for a daytime opening and loiter comfortably in the channel if needed; the holding is adequate.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas is your destination. The total capacity of the marina is 620 berths up to a maximum length of 45 metres and a draught of 4 metres, with 280 dry berths. Contact the marina via VHF upon arrival on Channel 69 and go to the office to process check-in paperwork. Facilities include fuel, water, shore power, lift and repair services — everything you need before pushing south. Shelter in Lefkada is good in the prevailing NW winds, though less so in strong E or S winds, when even some marina berths can become uncomfortable.
From Lefkada Town, the eastern anchorage of Nidri is just 10 nautical miles south and gives access to one of the most extraordinary small-island clusters in the Ionian. The Nidri Marina and nearby Vlikho Bay are perfect spots for anchoring, providing protection from winds and a serene environment. It is from Nidri that the offshore island group — Meganisi, Skorpios, Madouri — becomes your private playground. Skorpios, Meganisi, Madouri and Abelakia beach are places that can only be accessed by boat. Swing your tender off the transom here, drop the hook in 6–8 metres of impossibly clear water, and explore coves that road maps simply cannot reach.
Before you leave Lefkada, load your Navionics Adriatic & Ionian Sea chart region onto your chartplotter or tablet. The Navionics software is genuinely useful for planning in advance — it means more time on the water and less time at the chart table, and you can download the charts to your device easily. For a cruising ground this intricate, with coves and sub-metre shoals that Admiralty rasters miss entirely, Navionics is one of the best apps for using your tablet or mobile device as a chartplotter — incredibly easy to use and competitively priced, with a single subscription covering all your devices whether Apple or Android.
The Passage South: Crossing to Fiskardo, Kefalonia
The run from Nidri to Fiskardo at the northern tip of Kefalonia is a passage of around 18 nautical miles — a perfect morning run before the Maestral fills in. Leave by 0800, and you’ll be stern-to in Fiskardo with plenty of time for a long lunch. The crossing between Lefkada and Kefalonia is open water, but the sheltering effect of both islands keeps sea state manageable for anything above a 25-foot planing boat in typical summer conditions.
Fiskardo is the jewel of Kefalonia’s northern coast. Unlike the lion’s share of Kefalonia, Fiskardo was spared by the 1953 earthquake and the port has retained its traditional Italianate architecture — it is deservedly popular, and only Kioni on Ithaca is considered more charming. The approach is clean: Fiskardo (38°27’31N / 020°34’58 WGS84) is free of dangers, and the lighthouse on the N side of the entrance is easily identified and will guide you into the bay.
Berthing demands quick decision-making. The quay fills quickly in summer — many skippers go stern-to with a bow anchor; if the quay is full, anchor in the bay with ample scope and room to swing. Along the N shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks — but holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in. In peak July and August, arriving before 1000 is essential if you want a quayside berth. After that, plan to anchor.
Two miles south of Fiskardo, Foki Bay is located a couple of bays south of Fiskardo on Kefalonia and is very popular in the summer with superyachts — but it is possible to anchor and take a long line ashore. This is one of the Ionian’s best swim stops: a fjord-like slot in the cliffs with green-tinged water and near-silence by mid-afternoon when the charter flotillas have moved on.
For skippers who want Kefalonia’s most spectacular day-stop — and are prepared to accept the compromise — Assos on the northwest coast rewards the effort. There are no dangers in the approach, and most yachts are likely to approach from the N, when the ruins of the castle and a Venetian lighthouse on the N end of the promontory will be visible. Assos is an absolute gem but only suitable in lighter air — the anchorage quickly becomes untenable in rougher conditions, certainly in northerlies. Time it for a light-weather lunch stop on passage: anchor off in the harbour, clear of the small craft moorings on the E side, in depths of 5.0–8.0 metres — but the holding here is not always good, as the bottom has mud, weed and shingle. Set a good scope and go ashore for a table at the waterfront tavernas. That 16th-century Venetian castle staring down at your boat from the headland is a sight that makes the whole detour worthwhile.
Ithaca: Vathy, Kioni and the Anchorages Only Reachable by Water
From Fiskardo, Ithaca is just four nautical miles across the strait. Primary approaches are from the N and S via the channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia — the channel is deep and clear, with depths 50–150 metres mid-channel, shoaling to 20–40 metres within 1 NM of either coast. It is one of those crossings that feels grander than its distance suggests: the mountains of both islands rise steeply from the water, and the colour of the channel shifts from Kefalonia’s green-blue to the deeper indigo that sits between exposed limestone ridges.
Vathy, Ithaca’s main harbour, is found by heading east into the Gulf of Molos and then south into a narrowing enclosed bay. Vathy lies at the head of one of the most naturally sheltered bays in the Ionian Sea. The town of Vathi cannot be identified until you sail right into the bay — the chapel and lighthouse on Ak. Ay. Andreas are easily identified and will guide you straight in. Be aware of the afternoon wind pattern: with fresh afternoon sea breezes there can often be strong gusts off the mountains at the head of the gulf, and it may be wise to use the motor in such circumstances, especially as there may be a ferry leaving as you arrive.
Vathy provides anchoring in 5–10 metres over mud with reliable holding and high shelter from all directions. Vathy has the most reliable services — water, fuel, small supermarket and chandlery. There is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy covering fuel, lubricants and water. For a Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca itinerary of a week or more, Vathy is where you top up tanks, reprovisioned, and sleep deeply.
North of Vathy, Kioni is the stop that skippers remember longest. One of the most picturesque harbours in Ithaca, Kioni is a deep natural bay framed by ruined windmills and amphitheatrically-tiered colourful houses, and sits on the north-east coast of Ithaca, about 4 NM south of Frikes. Yachts moor at the quay bow-to or stern-to at a water depth of 2.5 to 10 metres — the steeply sloped seabed means it makes sense to use a long chain. Do not consider Kioni in Easterly or Southerly winds — the swell can get really big, and the holding is not good enough; the bottom is weedy and the depth where most boats drop anchors is over 10 metres. In the right conditions, however, it is close to perfect: stern lines secured, a cold Mythos in hand, those three illuminated windmills reflected in the evening water. This is what motor-boating in Greece is actually for.
For anchorages that exist only in the vocabulary of those who arrive by water, Polis Bay on Ithaca’s northwest coast deserves a detour. Polis Bay is a great overnight anchorage with a traditional Greek village at the top of the hill called Stavros — in the village square there is a model of the nearby ruins believed to be Odysseus’ palace, and the bay itself has interesting history including the Cave of Louizos and a very old church built into the hillside behind the beach café. Anchor in around 10 metres on good holding, then take the tender ashore.
Practical Skipper: Weather Windows, Fuel and Chartplanning
The cornerstone of a smooth southern Ionian itinerary is the morning passage window. Move before the Maestral builds — aim to be at anchor by 1300 at the latest. Afternoon northwesterlies develop, so settle into anchorages before the swell builds. This is not a constraint; it is a gift. It means you spend your afternoons exactly where you should be: swimming, eating, watching the light change on limestone cliffs.
Fuel planning requires attention: fuel is concentrated at Lefkada Town and the marina area, where marine diesel is available via fixed fuel berth. On Kefalonia, Argostoli and Sami carry reliable supplies. On Ithaca, as noted, the fuel dock is at Mylos in Vathy. There is no fuel available at anchorages, so plan your legs accordingly — the passages between these three islands are short enough that even modest tankage covers the loop comfortably.
For planning your charter or owner itinerary from home, Navionics’ Adriatic & Ionian Sea chart region is the standard tool skippers in this area rely on. The nautical chart serves as the premier marine reference to study port plans, anchorages and safety depth contours, locate navigation aids, marine services and more. Benefit from up to 5,000 daily updates worldwide — meaning that recent additions to the Ionian’s Community Edit database, including newly placed mooring rings and updated depth patches in Fiskardo and Kioni, are reflected in what you see on screen. Pair it with a dedicated anchorage guide for the Ionian — Imray’s Ionian pilot remains the hard-copy standard — and you have a complete picture before you even leave the dock.
The Itinerary: A Seven-Day Loop from Lefkada
This is the route the Nautiful Team recommends for a first visit under power, calibrated for a boat capable of 22–28 knots. It is also achievable in a displacement or semi-displacement cruiser at 10–12 knots by adjusting departure times.
- Day 1: Arrive D-Marin Lefkada via the canal. Time the bridge, VHF Ch 69. Overnight at the marina.
- Day 2: Morning departure south. Anchor Nidri/Vlikho Bay. Afternoon: tender to Meganisi and Skorpios by dinghy. Overnight at anchor.
- Day 3: Early run to Fiskardo, Kefalonia (approx. 18 NM). Arrive before 1000 for quayside berth. Swim Foki Bay by afternoon tender.
- Day 4: Day passage to Assos in light morning air (weather-dependent). Lunch stop, Venetian fort visit. Return to Fiskardo or push on to Sami for overnight.
- Day 5: Cross the strait to Kioni, Ithaca (4 NM). Arrive early afternoon. Stern-to at the village quay. Evening at a waterfront taverna.
- Day 6: Move south to Vathy. Top up fuel at Mylos. Afternoon swim in Polis Bay by tender.
- Day 7: Return passage north to Lefkada (approx. 20 NM direct). Final night at D-Marin before handover.
Booking Your Charter: What to Look For
The southern Ionian is exceptionally well served by charter bases, with D-Marin Lefkada acting as the hub for most operators. When booking a motorboat charter in this region — whether a Jeanneau Leader 36, a Cranchi E26 Classic or a fully crewed Azimut 40 — the Nautiful Team recommends looking specifically for operators who offer pre-loaded Navionics cards on the chartplotter, a briefed anchor guide covering Fiskardo, Kioni and Vathy, and genuine local knowledge of bridge opening times at Lefkada.
Several Lefkada-based charter specialists offer online booking with real-time availability, including berth pre-booking at D-Marin Lefkada to guarantee your arrival berth — essential in July and August when berths are difficult to find in high season, with only about 25 available at Fiskardo. Pre-booking your first and last nights at D-Marin through the marina’s direct portal gives you the security of a guaranteed stern berth either side of your itinerary, leaving the middle of the trip beautifully free-form.
This Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca has outlined the bones of the finest compact cruising loop in the Mediterranean. The specifics — the exact bearing into Vathy in a gusting afternoon northwester, the precise spot to lay your anchor off Fiskardo’s northern shore, the moment the windmills of Kioni light up after dark — those are the details that become yours the moment you cast off. No guide can replace the knowledge you earn from doing it. But it can start the passage in the right direction. Consider this yours.
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