There is a stretch of the Ionian where the sea holds its colour long after sunset — a particular shade of cobalt deepening to ink — and you feel it most acutely when the engines are in neutral, the anchor is down, and a string of lights from a village taverna is rippling across the water toward your hull. That feeling lives here, in the southern Ionian triangle formed by Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca. This Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is written for one kind of reader: someone arriving by motor, looking out over the bow. Every bearing, every anchorage, every taverna recommendation in these pages is framed from the water. There is no other perspective worth having.
Why the Southern Ionian Is the Motorboater’s Med in Miniature
Across the Aegean, the Meltemi dominates summer with a force that can make island-hopping a white-knuckle exercise. Not here. The Ionian, on the west side of the country, sits outside the Meltemi system entirely and runs on a milder, more predictable afternoon sea breeze instead. In the Ionian Sea, afternoon westerlies — the Maestral — are common, usually Force 3–5, making it attractive for relaxed cruising. For motorboaters, this is the crucial difference: you can run passages in the morning glassy calm, anchor for lunch in a cove that barely registers a ripple, and return to marina before the afternoon breeze builds to anything consequential.
The shape of the southern Ionian, sheltered by its largest islands — Lefkas and Kefalonia — means that you are almost always sailing in flat water. Distances between the three islands in this guide are short: Lefkada to Fiskardo on Kefalonia’s northern tip is roughly 20 nautical miles, and Fiskardo to Vathy on Ithaca is barely 8. On a capable cruiser — a Jeanneau DB 37 or an Azimut 40 — you cover those passages comfortably before the lunch anchor goes down.
Before you leave the dock, sort your chart package. Navionics Boating app covers the Adriatic and Ionian as a dedicated subscription, and its sonar chart data in the Ionian bays is genuinely granular — invaluable for reading unfamiliar anchorage shoals. The Imray G11 (North Ionian) and G12 (South Ionian) paper charts are worth carrying as a hard backup. Like all Imray charts, they are printed on water-resistant Pretex paper for durability, and include many anchorages, facilities and inlets not included on official charts, with the latest official data combined with additional information sourced from Imray’s network.
Lefkada: Threading the Canal, Finding the Anchorages
Most motorboats approaching Lefkada Town arrive from the north, which means threading the Lefkada Canal — and the famous floating bridge is your first proper test of local knowledge. The floating bridge at Lefkada is one of the most talked-about features of this marina approach. It opens only at scheduled times throughout the day to allow vessels to pass between the southern and northern sections of the lagoon. If you are arriving from the north or planning to depart northward, you must time your passage carefully to align with the bridge opening schedule. The bridge monitors on VHF Channel 12 as “Floating Bridge Santa Maura.” Miss a slot and you are waiting — potentially in a narrowing queue with a stiffening cross-breeze.
The approach of Lefkada city from the north is rather challenging. The sandbank and silts at the northern end of the canal continuously change shape, and as of 2015 three groynes have been installed to protect the entrance, marked by 3 yellow buoys. Stay inside the buoys, follow the lead marks, and resist the urge to cut corners — the shoaling here is not charted with precision. Depths in the channel are maintained by dredging and are typically around 3–5 m, with strong crosswinds and current effects possible during transit; holding position while waiting for the bridge opening requires control due to confined space and traffic density.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas is your full-service base. The marina has been operating since 2002 and has mooring places for 620 boats up to 45 metres long. Hail the marina on VHF Channel 69 on approach. The marina lies inside a long, L-shaped wavebreak pontoon that shelters the berths from east and north; entry is from the south between the wavebreak pontoon and the jetty with the fuel berth at its end. Use the ELIN boat petrol station at the south entrance of the marina at 38°49.757′N, 20°42.895′E. It gets extremely busy on Friday afternoons when charter fleets turn over — plan fuel stops accordingly.
The anchorages south of Lefkada Town are where the island reveals itself properly. Skip Nidri itself — it is a popular and crowded summer resort and in July and August is heaving with scores of tripper boats, yachts, water ski boats and ferries churning up the waters. Instead, push through into Vlicho Bay. Vlicho is a long, sheltered, natural bay on the eastern coast of Lefkada, just south of Nidri. Its calm waters and excellent protection from all wind directions make it one of the safest anchorages in the Ionian, even during strong blows. Bottom is mud with good holding. For atmosphere with your anchor down, Desimi Bay just outside is the better pick: tucked near the Geni Peninsula, this anchorage is hidden and peaceful, surrounded by pine forests and great for swimming, with excellent shelter and anchor holding. Anchor in 4–8 metres over sand and take the tender ashore to the Kantina for cold Alfa beer and something grilled.
The Passage South: Lefkada to Kefalonia
Set off early. The run south from Lefkada to Kefalonia covers around 20 nautical miles — nothing demanding — but the Meganisi channel and the open water south of Sparti Island can kick up a short, steep chop by early afternoon when the Maestral builds. A 35-knot Axopar 37 or a Pardo 38 on twin Mercurys will handle it easily, but passengers will be more comfortable if you leave by 0800 and have the hook down somewhere calm by noon. Keep Kalamos Island on your starboard quarter as you cross south; the water here turns a deeper turquoise, and you will already be thinking about where to swim.
The passage between Kefalonia and Ithaca — the strait known locally as the Ithaki Channel — deserves respect in the afternoon. Gusts can funnel and accelerate here, and ferry traffic runs through without slowing down. Cross in the morning and you will find flat, mirror water and the light on the limestone cliffs of Kefalonia’s north coast doing things that will distract you from your chartplotter.
Kefalonia: Fiskardo, Assos and the Anchorages Only You Can Reach
Fiskardo needs no introduction among Ionian skippers, but it rewards those who understand its quirks. Approach Fiskardo at 38°27′31N / 020°34′58E: free of dangers, the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified and will guide you into the bay. The quay scene is chaotic in July and August — stern-to mooring with crossed anchors is the endemic problem. Stern-to on the east quay is fine and not involved in the carnage of the rest of the harbour with crossed anchors. Alternatively, along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks. Holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in.
Fiskardo survived the 1953 earthquake largely intact, and its Venetian architecture — the pastel-painted waterfront, the restored lighthouse on the headland — remains the most photogenic harbour facade in the Ionian. Most of the area’s top eateries are located along the resort’s harbour, some with tables almost within arm’s reach of docked boats. Elli’s on the waterfront is the name most serious foodies will recognise; the restaurant’s waterfront tables provide stunning views of the Ionian Sea and lush pine trees, with a menu featuring red snapper fillet, grilled swordfish and lobster. Vasso’s has been feeding visiting crews since 1988. Ask for a glass of Robola — Kefalonia’s dry white, made from a grape grown almost nowhere else — and you will understand why people keep coming back.
When Fiskardo is full, the anchorages south of the village are among the most beautiful in this part of the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca circuit. Foki Bay — the first inlet south of Fiskardo — is the first inlet south without major touristic developments; the sea caves are frequented by Mediterranean monk seals; anchor in 3–5 metres. Assos is the jewel of the northern Kefalonian coast: Assos Bay offers perhaps the most spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay. The surrounding cliffs provide complete wind protection, though space is limited to around 10–12 yachts. The bay maintains consistent depths of 4–8 metres with excellent holding in sand and weed. Note the critical caveat: Assos is only suitable in lighter air; the anchorage quickly becomes untenable in rougher conditions, certainly in northerlies. Check the forecast before committing your overnight.
For provisioning, Fiskardo itself has supermarkets and a good bakery reachable on foot from the quay. For serious reprovisioning, take the boat to Argostoli. Argostoli provides the most developed berthing facilities on Kefalonia, with extensive town quay berthing and a municipal marina area. Berthing is stern-to or alongside, with depths typically 3–3.5 metres alongside and deeper water in the approach channel. The port supports 200+ berths with access to water, electricity, fuel, sanitary facilities, chandlery and technical services.
Ithaca: Vathy, Kioni and the Island That Rewards Patience
Eight miles east of Fiskardo, across a glittering channel, lies Ithaca — and a skipper approaching Vathy for the first time will understand why Homer chose it as Odysseus’s home. Vathy, meaning “deep,” is the main harbour and administrative centre of Ithaca and lies at the head of one of the most naturally sheltered bays in the Ionian Sea. The entrance is narrow and well defined, opening into a long, enclosed inlet. The town of Vathy cannot be identified until you sail right into the bay. The chapel and the lighthouse on Akrotiri Agios Andreas are easily identified and will guide you straight in. Care is needed as the prevailing winds — usually between 1500 and 2100 — gust from the northwest, and ferries come and go.
Vathy provides anchoring in 5–10 m over mud with reliable holding and high shelter from all directions. Anchoring in the bay is common since quay spaces fill quickly. Aim to anchor close to the town centre for shallower depths, or southwest of Lazaretto islet for reduced wind exposure. Vathy has the most reliable services: water, fuel, a small supermarket and chandlery. The harbourmaster office sits on the customs quay 200 metres southeast of the main yacht quay — check in here.
North of Vathy, Kioni is the village that rewards those willing to thread the 8-mile coastal run. Kioni Bay provides anchoring in 5–10 m over mud and sand with good holding and protection from prevailing winds, though limited space is available. The best berths are stern-to at the quay near the green harbour light. To cope with the violent westerly gusts you should take a wide-angled line from the mid-cleat to the quay. The three ruined windmills on Cape Psigadi guide your approach. Tuck into anchor early — by mid-afternoon in August this is one of the most sought-after overnight spots in the southern Ionian.
The anchorage that only the boat-borne ever reach is Gidaki Beach on Ithaca’s northeast coast. Gidaki is one of Ithaca’s most beautiful beaches with turquoise waters. It can only be reached by boat or via a long and demanding walk. Depths increase rapidly, so anchor as close to the beach as possible. Around the yellow swimming buoys, the depth is about 8 metres. Drop the hook, deploy the swim ladder and spend two hours in water so clear you can see the sandy bottom beneath the keel. This is what the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca route exists for.
Charts, Bookings and Practical Intelligence for the Ionian Motorboater
The Nautiful Team has done this circuit on various hulls — from a Jeanneau NC 37 to a Sunseeker Portofino 48 — and the navigation intelligence that matters is consistent regardless of boat size. Here is the consolidated operational picture:
- Charts: Run Navionics Boating (Adriatic and Ionian subscription) on your chartplotter or tablet as your primary electronic chart. The SonarChart live data in Vathy and Vlicho Bay is particularly accurate. Carry Imray G11 and G12 paper charts as backup.
- VHF: D-Marin Lefkas on Channel 69. The Lefkada floating bridge on Channel 12. Monitor Channel 16 at all times; a forecast in Greek and English is given for all Greek waters at 06:00, 10:00, 16:00, and 22:00 (GMT+2).
- Fuel: Lefkada marina (south entrance, ELIN station); Argostoli (alongside the town quay); Vathy (ask the harbourmaster — a fuel delivery service operates in season).
- Berthing style: Stern-to on laid moorings is the standard across all three islands. Practice your Med moor before you leave home, and bring a decent length of stern lines — 30 metres each side is not excessive in deeper berths.
- Timing: For the smoothest conditions, June and September are ideal, offering warm weather, reliable winds and fewer people blocking your favourite anchorage. July and August are doable but anchorages fill by early afternoon — anchor by 1400 or accept second-best.
- Charter bases: D-Marin Lefkas is the primary motorboat charter hub for this circuit. Several operators run Axopar 37, Saxdor 320 GTO and Azimut 40 hulls out of Lefkas. Book through established platforms early — summer availability tightens by February.
The Loop: A Seven-Day Ionian Motorboat Itinerary
Done properly, this circuit runs beautifully as a seven-day loop. Base from D-Marin Lefkas. Day one: explore Vlicho Bay and Desimi anchorage. Day two: run south to Fiskardo — arrive by noon, stern-to the east quay, spend the afternoon swimming at Foki. Day three: day-trip to Assos if the forecast is gentle, overnight at anchor north of Fiskardo. Day four: cross the Ithaki Channel to Vathy — arrive for lunch, collect harbour papers, swim off the stern. Day five: run north to Kioni, anchor early, dine ashore at the quayside tavernas. Day six: passage back north to Fiskardo or direct to Lefkada via the Ithaki Channel. Day seven: final morning in Vlicho Bay, bridge transit back to D-Marin and handover by midday.
The circuit covers roughly 80 nautical miles of actual running. A 30-knot cruiser completes each day’s navigation in under three hours, leaving five hours of swimming, eating and exploring at each stop. This is not a passage route. It is a pleasure route — and the distinction matters enormously when the afternoon light turns the limestone of Ithaca’s western cliffs to hammered gold.
Bringing It All Together
The southern Ionian between Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca delivers something rare in a Mediterranean summer: genuine seclusion within easy reach of comfortable marinas, combined with wind conditions that work in a motorboater’s favour almost every day of the season. The bridge at Lefkada is your dramatic entrance. Fiskardo is your social hub. Vathy is your moment of reflection. Gidaki Beach — reachable only from the water — is your reward for understanding that the best places are always found from the bow, not the bus window.
Whether you are planning a bareboat charter out of D-Marin Lefkas, bringing your own boat over from Corfu or Preveza, or simply mapping out your first serious Ionian circuit, the Nautiful Team is here to make your navigation sharper and your time on the water better. Load the Navionics Adriatic and Ionian chart subscription before you go, pre-book your D-Marin berth for the first and last nights, and let the mornings sort out everything in between.
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