There is a stretch of the Ionian that stops you mid-helm, hand on the throttle, unable to quite believe what you’re looking at. Three islands — Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca — rise steeply from jade-coloured water, their limestone walls trailing cypress and olive right down to the shoreline. No ferry crossing, no airport transfer queue, no hire car. Just your bow wave, a working VHF and the whole archipelago arranged like a private itinerary someone drew for you. This is the Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca — written from the water, for the people who live their best Mediterranean summers at the helm.
Understanding the Ionian: Wind, Water and When to Go
Before a single waypoint is entered, understand the weather system that rules this triangle of islands. The typical summer wind is the Maistro, blowing from the northwest and building only by midday. Mornings are often calm. Afternoons bring a steady 12 to 20 knots, sometimes up to 25, almost never more. For a motorboat skipper, this is about as good as the Mediterranean gets. Depart early, run your passage in the glassy morning hours, and be anchored and swimming before the afternoon chop kicks in.
Compared to the Aegean, you’re sheltered here from the notorious Meltemi gales. When you spot dense clouds building above the summits of Ithaca, Kefalonia or Zakynthos, expect strong gusts on the leeward side, especially on the east side of Ithaca. Read the peaks, read the sky and you’ll rarely be caught out.
The best period is May to October, with June and September ideal for comfort and fewer crowds. The islands cluster within 15–25 nautical miles of each other — Lefkas, Meganisi, Kalamos, Ithaca, Kefalonia — and most passages between island stops are two to four hours. Load Navionics+ on your chart plotter before you leave the dock — the Ionian layers are detailed and current, and the sonar charts around Kefalonia’s north cape repay the subscription fee on the first approach alone.
Lefkada: The Canal Approach and D-Marin Base
Most Ionian circuits begin at Lefkada, and the arrival is immediately distinctive. When approaching from the north, you pass through the Lefkada Canal, a shallow, dredged channel that connects the lagoon to the open sea near Aktion. The canal leads you directly past the famous floating bridge — one of the most talked-about features of this approach — which opens only at scheduled times throughout the day to allow vessels to pass.
Get the timing right. According to the Lefkada Port Authority, from 29 June until 15 September 2026, the bridge opens at 08:00, 10:00, 14:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 and 22:00. The bridge listens on VHF channel 12, callsign “Floating Bridge Santa Maura,” though this watch is not always reliable. Build in an extra 30 minutes either side — the procession of charter boats jostling for position in the narrows is real. The canal approach requires careful navigation; use up-to-date charts and follow the buoyed channel precisely, particularly at lower water levels.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas is a state-of-the-art private marina built in 2002, offering much more than just a berth, with a wide range of services. Total capacity is 620 berths up to a maximum length of 45 metres and a draught of 4 metres, plus 280 dry berths. Contact the marina on VHF channel 69 upon arrival and head to the office to process check-in paperwork. Book your berth well in advance for July and August — D-Marin fills quickly during peak charter season. Provisioning from the marina is straightforward: Lefkada town has a good selection of chandleries and marine equipment suppliers, useful if you need spare parts or gear before a longer passage south.
The east coast anchorages beyond Nidri are where the charter fleets congregate at dusk. For something quieter, push south towards Vasiliki — the bay fills with kite- and windsurf gear in the afternoons, with a sandy bottom anchorage and restaurants on the beach. The swimming is exceptional: water clarity in these bays often exceeds 30 metres’ visibility, allowing you to see your anchor and assess the seabed conditions easily.
The Passage South: Lefkada to Kefalonia
The route from Lefkada to Kefalonia covers approximately 22 nautical miles — typically a comfortable three to four hour run. Leave D-Marin at first light, clear the south end of the island by 08:00 and you’ll be rounding Kefalonia’s northern cape with flat water under the hull. Time your approach for Fiskardo before the midday northwesterly establishes itself and the anchorage becomes a game of musical chairs.
This is the passage where the Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca experience really opens up. The landscape is part of the appeal: high green mountains on Lefkada and Kefalonia, white cliffs on Antipaxos, long sandy beaches — and small fishing villages with ancient olive groves running down to the water. Keep a watch for local fishing nets in the narrows between the islands. Watch for local fishing nets and occasional unmarked rocks. The Greek Coast Guard emergency number is 108 if you need it, though in these conditions, trouble is the exception rather than the rule.
Kefalonia: Fiskardo, Assos and the Anchorages Worth the Detour
Fiskardo is the centrepiece and everyone who arrives by water understands why immediately. Unlike the lion’s share of Kefalonia, Fiskardo was spared by the 1953 earthquake and the port has retained its traditional Italianate architecture. Approach coordinates are 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E — the entrance is free of dangers, and the lighthouse on the north side is easily identified to guide you into the bay.
Entry is made into a small, enclosed natural harbour on the north coast, approached in deep water of 10–20 metres. The entrance is clear and well defined, though space inside is limited. Depths are typically 3–5 metres alongside and 8–12 metres in the anchorage area. The quay fills quickly in summer; many skippers go stern-to with a bow anchor. Along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks. Holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in.
Two miles south, Assos is a completely different proposition. Assos Bay offers perhaps the most spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay. The surrounding cliffs provide complete wind protection, though space is limited to around 10–12 yachts. The bay maintains consistent depths of 4–8 metres with excellent holding in sand and weed. Assos is only suitable in lighter air — the anchorage quickly becomes untenable in rougher conditions, certainly in northerlies. Come here for lunch, not to overnight in a building northwester. The tender run ashore takes two minutes; the view of the Venetian castle from the water takes considerably longer to leave.
Continuing south, Antisamos Bay — directly across from Ithaca — rewards any detour. This is a sheltered and beautiful bay close to Sami; the northeast entrance is protected by Ithaca island. Anchoring runs to 8–15 metres over sand and weed with good holding and good shelter from most directions. For those heading further south toward Argostoli, Argostoli provides the most developed berthing on Kefalonia, with extensive town quay berthing in depths typically 3–3.5 metres alongside, supporting around 200-plus berths with access to water, electricity, fuel, sanitary facilities, chandlery and technical services. It’s the best resupply point on the island — use it before heading across to Ithaca. Book marina berths for both Fiskardo and Argostoli via the Marinafy platform if you want to guarantee space in July and August.
Ithaca: Vathy, Kioni and the Beaches Only You Can Reach
The crossing from Fiskardo to Kioni is just 5 nautical miles west to Fiskardo on Kefalonia, across to this corner of Ithaca. Ithaca is one of the most distinctive sailing destinations in the Ionian, offering exceptional natural shelter within a compact and mountainous island. Its coastline is deeply indented, forming narrow bays and fjord-like inlets that provide protection in conditions where more open islands become uncomfortable. As a result, Ithaca has been a natural haven for sailors for centuries.
Kioni stops you in your tracks the moment the three ruined windmills on the southern headland come into view. Approaching from the north or east, you’ll spot the old windmills on the southern headland at the entrance to the bay. Beautiful sophisticated buildings line the water’s edge, backed by greenery and olive groves. Yachts moor at the quay bow-to or stern-to at a water depth of 2.5 to 10 metres — the steeply sloped seabed means it makes sense to use a long chain. Arrive by 14:00 — Kioni fills early. Late arrivals find themselves anchored further out with a longer dinghy ride. Kioni is safe in the prevailing NW conditions but note that the afternoon does bring strong NW gusts, making mooring either stern-to on the quay, or long-lined to the cliffs, challenging with a crosswind.
Eight nautical miles south lies Vathy, Ithaca’s capital and the most practical overnight stop on the island. Vathy lies at the head of a long inlet on the east coast, four miles south of Kioni. It is a popular destination for yachts of all sizes, providing a number of berthing opportunities as well as a good anchorage off the town. Ithaca’s marina in Vathy is set just off the main harbour, with pontoon berths, laid lines and full services including water, electricity, fuel and shore facilities. There is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy for fuel, lubricants and water. The tavernas line the harbourfront close enough to reach by tender with dry shoes — order the grilled octopus and the local wine and stay until the last fishing boat is back in.
The greatest reward Ithaca offers is reserved entirely for those arriving by boat. Gidaki is one of Ithaca’s most beautiful beaches, with turquoise waters. It can only be reached by boat or via a long and demanding walk. Depths increase rapidly, so try to anchor as close to the beach as possible. Anchor as close to the beach as possible — around the yellow swimming buoys the depth is about 8 metres. Set sail from Vathi bright and early, making Gidaki beach your first stop — get there before the larger crowds, as excursion boats start arriving around 10:00. This is the quintessential motorboat moment: engine off, anchor set, swimming ladder down, nothing between you and the water but 30 metres of crystalline Ionian visibility.
For those with a sense of the mythic, Polis Bay near Stavros, surrounded by olive groves and forested slopes, is an anchor-friendly bay near the mythical location of Odysseus’s palace, offering natural Ionian serenity. Drop the hook here at sunset and you’ll understand why sailors have been making this landfall for three thousand years.
Practical Skipper’s Checklist: What to Carry, Book and Know
This Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca works best when you arrive prepared. The list below is born of hard-won experience, not a spreadsheet.
- Charts: Load Navionics+ with Ionian SonarChart layers before departure. The approaches to Fiskardo’s north anchorage and Assos are straightforward, but the southern coves of Kefalonia reward close study at the chart table before you arrive in person. Update the app while you still have marina Wi-Fi.
- VHF discipline: Monitor Ch 16 at all times. D-Marin Lefkas works on VHF channel 69. The Lefkada floating bridge calls are handled on VHF channel 12. Keep both in scan.
- Fuel: Fuel is available in Lefkada Town at the channel and marina area, including Lefkas Marina, where marine diesel is available via fixed fuel berth and road tanker delivery directly to quay or marina berths. Top up at Lefkada before heading south — Fiskardo has no dedicated fuel dock and Vathy’s fuel station requires a dinghy or very careful stern-to positioning.
- Anchoring kit: Most harbours and anchorages on Ithaca require stern lines due to rapidly increasing depths and limited swinging room. Carry at least two 40-metre warps and know where your stainless rings are. Kioni, Gidaki and the Kefalonia coves south of Fiskardo all demand them.
- Timing: Mornings are often calm. Afternoons bring 12 to 20 knots, sometimes 25. Passage-make before 11:00 wherever possible. Anchor before 14:00. Enjoy the breeze from the cockpit with something cold in your hand.
- Berth booking: For July and August, pre-book D-Marin Lefkas via their website or through a charter agent. Fiskardo operates on first-come, first-served — arrival before 10:00 secures the best stern-to positions on the main quay.
- Insurance and paperwork: Carry your vessel’s DEKPA (transit log) and ensure your insurance covers the Ionian Islands specifically. VAT in Greece is at 24% on charter contracts, and there are no local navigation taxes.
The Circuit in Summary: A Seven-Day Route That Works
The best Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca itinerary for a motorboat covering 200–350 nautical miles in a week looks like this: base at D-Marin Lefkas, overnight at Nidri or Vasiliki on day one; day two south to Fiskardo via the east coast of Lefkada; day three explore Assos and Antisamos; day four cross to Kioni, Ithaca; day five Vathy with a morning tender run to Gidaki; day six back north to Fiskardo for dinner on the quay; day seven return to Lefkada via Meganisi’s sheltered bays. A typical itinerary starting in Kefalonia or Lefkada will involve one to two hours of cruising per day with total mileage not exceeding 150–200 miles.
Winds are generally lighter than the Aegean, with afternoon north-westerly breezes common in summer. Navigation is mostly line-of-sight and suitable for relaxed island hopping. Mooring is a mix of town quays, small harbours, restaurant moorings and anchorages. For a motorboat — whether an Azimut 43, a Jeanneau Leader 36 or a Sunseeker Predator 65 — these are near-perfect conditions: short, purposeful passages that end somewhere genuinely beautiful.
There are places in the Mediterranean where you arrive by water and understand, completely, why the ancients believed the gods lived nearby. This corner of the Ionian is one of them. Point the bow south out of the Lefkada canal, watch Kefalonia rise dark green against the morning sky, and you’ll agree.
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