There is a triangle of islands in the southern Ionian that rewards the skipper more generously the better they know it. Between the north of Lefkada and the southern tip of Kefalonia lies one of the most concentrated collections of anchorages, medieval harbours, and lapis-coloured swimming coves in the entire Mediterranean. Every one of them is better from the water than from the road. This Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is written for motor boaters at the helm — for people arriving by sea, reading the depths, setting the anchor, and stepping ashore for dinner before rowing back under the stars.
Understanding the Ionian: Weather Windows and When to Go
Before the first waypoint is entered, understand what drives this cruising ground. The primary summer wind is the Maistros, a north-westerly sea breeze that builds gently around midday, peaks in the afternoon at Force 3–5, and dies down by sunset. In the Ionian in the height of summer, it is said that you can set your watch to the wind — not a breath before 11am, then a gradually building medium breeze that is ideal for a relaxed afternoon sail, before the wind goes to sleep shortly before dusk. For motor boaters, this means a simple routine: depart early in flat calm, cover ground, be anchored and settled by early afternoon.
June and September are considered the best months by experienced charterers, because the weather is reliably warm, the Maistro fills in dependably at midday, and the bays aren’t yet or no longer overcrowded. The Meltemi does not reach the Ionian, which is why this region suits new sailors and families. Compared to the anxiety-inducing forecasts typical of an Aegean summer, the Ionian feels almost benevolently predictable. The prevailing wind is channelled and funnelled by the significant mountainous land masses in its way, however, so it can vary in strength and direction quite quickly — a reminder that local knowledge still counts, even in gentle waters.
Pre-departure charts tip: Load the Navionics Boating App with the Adriatic & Ionian Sea subscription before you leave your home port. The Navionics software is genuinely useful for pre-departure planning — planning in advance means more time cruising and less time at the chart table. The app’s SonarChart layer reveals real depth data contributed by thousands of vessels, and it’s invaluable for checking the edges of anchorages before you swing in.
Lefkada: The Canal Approach and Vlycho Bay
Most Ionian itineraries begin at Lefkada, and with good reason. Lefkas Marina lies at the north end of the canal that separates the island of Lefkas from the mainland coast of Greece, offering 620 berths on seven pontoons and associated quays in depths of up to 4.0 metres. Contact the marina on VHF Channel 69.
Approaching from the north demands respect. The approach to Lefkas Canal from the north is tricky, especially for a first-time visitor and even more so if there are fresh to strong NW winds with the afternoon seabreeze, which cause a difficult swell as they break on the shore around the entrance. From 08:00 to 22:00 there is a full rotation of the bridge every hour; from 23:00 to 07:00 the bridge also rotates fully, only if there is a ship, on request via VHF 12. The bridge monitors VHF 12 as “Floating Bridge Santa Maura” — call ahead to confirm the next opening. Note that as of 2026, due to a new underwater pipeline project, opening times for yachts and vessels are temporarily irregular. Check with the marina on VHF 69 for the current schedule on arrival.
Once through and settled at D-Marin, the real Lefkada begins. Use the ELIN boat petrol station at the south entrance of the marina at 38°49.757′N, 20°42.895′E for fuelling — moor stern-to from the SE side. The station is extremely busy on Friday afternoons when charter fleets return; plan your visit accordingly.
South of Lefkada Town, Nidri is the social engine of the east coast. Thanks to its superb natural harbour and vibrant buzz, Nidri is a major hotspot for yachties; it has a 222-berth marina and plenty of space for anchoring. Step ashore by tender: the waterfront promenade is lined with cafés, tavernas and bars, where yachts and fishing boats tie up just metres away. For a more sheltered overnight, head further into Vlycho Bay. Vlycho is a long, sheltered, natural bay on the eastern coast of Lefkada, just south of Nidri — its calm waters and excellent protection from all wind directions make it one of the safest anchorages in the Ionian, even during strong blows. The bay is popular among cruisers for extended stays thanks to easy anchoring, good holding, and proximity to yacht services; along the shore you’ll find tavernas, small shops, and repair facilities, while Nidri is only a short dinghy ride away for more extensive provisioning.
Kefalonia: Fiskardo, Assos, and the Western Coves
The passage south from Lefkada to Kefalonia — roughly 25nm depending on your route — is one of the finest motor passages in the Ionian. Run it early. By the time you round the northern cape and enter the channel between the two islands, the Maistro will be building and the chop in open water grows quickly.
Fiskardó is a charming and well-sheltered small harbour at the north-east end of Kefalonia. Because the town was not destroyed by the 1953 earthquake that flattened most of Kefalonia, it is the most architecturally picturesque town on the island. Approach on position 38°27′31N / 020°34′58E — the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified and will guide you into the bay. The small harbour is almost always crowded and it pays to arrive early, especially during July and August — even arriving as early as mid-day, your only option may be to anchor on the north side with lines ashore.
Along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks. Holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in. Note that the whole town quay is converted into terraces for all the tavernas — even the small piers have tables set, so your gangway will be within touching distance of the tourists dining. This is either charming or insufferable depending on your mood, and usually both at once.
For a quieter alternative on the western coast, Assos rewards the effort on a settled morning. Assos is a picturesque small harbour on the NW coast of Kefalonia, around six miles south of the northernmost tip of the island — the village and harbour are situated on a narrow isthmus which joins the mainland to a large promontory dominated by a Venetian fort. Larger vessels can anchor north of the mole in depths of 10–15 metres and take lines ashore to rings set into the rocks. Shelter in the bay is only moderate and Assos should be avoided with winds of anything more than force 3–4 from W round to NE — a good motto for Assos is: if there are white horses at sea and the winds are W or N, don’t plan a visit. Come on a calm morning, anchor off the Venetian walls, and you’ll have one of the most photogenic spots in all of Greece to yourself before the day trippers arrive.
The exceptional water clarity in Kefalonia’s bays, often exceeding 30 metres’ visibility, allows you to see your anchor and assess the seabed conditions easily — a genuine luxury when you’re hovering over a shoreline you’ve never visited before. For secluded swimming only accessible by boat, the coastline between Assos and Fiskardo offers countless bays and coves not accessible by land, making it possible to find an empty beach and relax in privacy, away from the crowds.
The Kefalonia–Ithaca Channel: A Short Passage, a Big Reward
The strait between Kefalonia and Ithaca is one of those passages that looks nothing on the chart — four miles at its narrowest — but rewards you with one of the most dramatic arrivals in the Ionian. Primary approaches are from the north and south via the channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia; the channel is deep and clear with depths 50–150m mid-channel, shoaling to 20–40m within 1nm of either coast. Wind acceleration and short seas occur with NW winds, particularly in the northern entrance — so push through the narrows promptly before the Maistro gets going.
This is a good moment to mention marina bookings. In July and August, berths at Vathy disappear by lunchtime. The Nautiful team strongly recommends pre-booking through a dedicated marina booking platform — it costs nothing extra and saves the indignity of circling an unknown harbour at 35°C. Check availability and book Ionian marina berths at least two weeks ahead in peak season.
Ithaca: Vathy, Kioni, and the Anchorages of Odysseus
Ithaca stops you in your tracks. It is one of the most distinctive sailing destinations in the Ionian, offering exceptional natural shelter within a compact and mountainous island — its coastline is deeply indented, forming narrow bays and fjord-like inlets that provide protection in conditions where more open islands become uncomfortable.
Vathy is the capital and your practical base. The main port lies on the SE coast and is entered through a narrow, well-defined inlet — depths reduce from 30–40m outside to 10–15m at the entrance, then 5–8m inside the bay. The entrance is free of hazards but requires accurate alignment; once inside, the bay is fully enclosed and sheltered. Marina Limani Vathy has around 100 serviced berths and offers maintenance facilities as well as sanitary amenities. It is also possible to anchor off the town in 5–10 metres, where the holding is moderate to good in mud and weed once your anchor is well dug in. Vathy has the most reliable services on the island — water, fuel, small supermarket, and chandlery. For provisioning, step ashore and walk the harbourfront; a well-stocked supermarket sits directly south of the yacht quay.
North of Vathy, Kioni is the Ionian at its most seductive. One of the most picturesque harbours in Ithaca — a deep natural bay framed by ruined windmills and amphitheatrically-tiered colourful houses — Kioni sits on the north-east coast of Ithaca, about 4nm south of Frikes; the bay opens gently between wooded slopes and reveals a compact waterfront village that has the visual charm sailors come for and the practical shelter overnight crews need. The entrance can be identified from the sea by three ruined windmills on a promontory in the southern part of the bay. The pier for yachts is located in the upper part of the bay, behind a short breakwater — depths at the entrance are 10–12 metres, and along the embankment from 2 to 5 metres.
Moor stern-to on the main quay if there is a space — the depth in the middle of the bay can drop off past 15m, so watch your depth gauge carefully before dropping. Avoid Kioni entirely in easterly or southerly winds — the swell can get really big, and the holding is not good enough; the bottom is weedy and anchoring depth is over 10m. In settled NW conditions, however, it is as good as it gets. Tavernas on the seafront include Mills, Calypso, and Lizzy’s — all reachable with no more than a short walk from the quay. Plan to be anchored well before the afternoon northwesterlies develop and the swell builds.
Most harbours and anchorages on Ithaca require stern lines due to rapidly increasing depths and limited swinging room — katabatic gusts spilling down from the steep terrain are common, sometimes strong and localised, making careful positioning and generous scope essential. This is not the Cyclades: the Ionian’s mountains demand the same respect even when the forecast looks benign.
Practical Notes: Fuel, Charts, and Getting the Most From This Circuit
A full circuit of Lefkada, Kefalonia, and Ithaca — the heart of what a proper Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca covers — spans roughly 120–160nm depending on diversions. For a motor cruiser running at 20–25 knots, that’s generous day-trip distances with time to anchor and explore. At displacement speeds in a larger powerboat, plan for 4–5 cruising days minimum to do it justice.
- Fuel — Lefkada: Marine diesel is available at Lefkas Marina via fixed fuel berth and road tanker delivery directly to quay or marina berths. Plan fuelling around bridge opening times if approaching from the north.
- Fuel — Kefalonia: Fiskardo has no dedicated fuel pontoon; Argostoli (Sami is also an option) is your best bet for a full top-up. Come in early — the Argostoli harbour approaches can be slow under summer afternoon winds.
- Fuel — Ithaca: There is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy offering fuel, lubricants, and water.
- Charts: Run the Navionics Boating App (Adriatic & Ionian subscription) as your primary electronic chart, backed by the Imray G12 South Ionian Islands paper chart. The Imray G12 covers the Lefkada Canal, Kefalonia, and Ithaca at various scales and combines the latest official survey data with first-hand information. Never rely on a single source in waters where small coves and updated sandbanks change faster than chart cycles.
- Charter base: If you’re chartering rather than bringing your own boat, Lefkada Town is the most popular and practical base — flying into Preveza (PVK) airport puts you dockside in 20 minutes. For a charter that covers all three islands properly, book a minimum of seven days. Bareboat charters from Lefkada start at approximately €1,800–€3,500 per week for a well-found motor yacht in the 30–40ft range, rising sharply in July–August.
For those planning ahead, the Nautiful team uses and recommends Navionics for route planning, sonar depth overlays, and real-time weather routing. The Adriatic & Ionian subscription covers this entire circuit in a single purchase and syncs across devices before you leave home. Load it, study it, then enjoy the fact that the real thing is even better than the chart.
The Ionian Circuit: Why This Trio Belongs Together
There is a reason this Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca keeps being written and rewritten by every generation of blue-water boaters who finds this corner of Greece. The three islands form a natural circuit — compact enough to complete in a week, varied enough to absorb a fortnight. Lefkada gives you the infrastructure: a full-service marina, lively anchorages, and easy provisioning. Kefalonia gives you the drama: towering cliffs, Venetian villages, and turquoise coves that only make sense from the water. Ithaca gives you something rarer — silence, mythology, and the particular satisfaction of walking ashore in a harbour that Homer wrote about and finding it hasn’t changed as much as you feared.
Keep the mornings for passage-making, the afternoons for swimming off the stern platform, and the evenings for taverna tables three feet from the water. That rhythm — unhurried, heat-soaked, endlessly varied — is why the Ionian has always been the gentlest place to fall properly in love with motorboating.
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