There is a triangle of water between Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca that ranks among the finest cruising grounds in the entire Mediterranean. It is close enough to pick apart in a single week, varied enough to fill a season, and sufficiently uncrowded — at least before the July armadas arrive — to make you feel like you have genuinely discovered something. This Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is written for one kind of reader: someone standing at the helm, scanning the horizon, trying to figure out exactly where to drop the hook tonight.
Reading the Ionian: Wind, Weather and When to Go
Before you plot a single waypoint, understand what makes this cruising ground tick. Unlike the Aegean — where the Meltemi, a powerful northerly wind, can blow at Force 6–8 for days in July and August — the Ionian is largely sheltered from those stronger winds. The primary summer wind here is the Maistros, a gentle north-westerly sea breeze that typically builds around midday, peaks at Force 3–5 in the afternoon, and dies down by sunset.
This creates a natural rhythm for a day at sea: calm mornings to enjoy a swim before departure, breezy afternoons for lively sailing, and peaceful evenings at anchor. It is a gift to the organised skipper. Depart early, cover your ground by 13:00, pick your anchorage, and let the afternoon blow through while you sit with a cold Mythos and watch the windsurfers.
Air temperatures warm steadily from about 22–26°C in May, rising to 30–34°C in July and August, before easing back to 24–28°C in September. The shoulder season offers arguably the best sailing conditions: September maintains warm water temperatures while air temperatures moderate to comfortable mid-twenties. The prevailing wind is channelled and funnelled by the significant mountainous land masses in its way, so it can vary in strength and direction quite quickly — something to bear in mind when running south of Vasiliki or threading the channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia.
Before you leave the dock, load the Navionics+ app with the Ionian chart set. Navionics software is genuinely useful for this region; planning in advance means more time sailing and less time at the chart table, and you can download charts to your device easily and at minimal cost. Back it up with the Imray G11 (North Ionian) and G12 (South Ionian) paper charts aboard. Imray-Tetra charts for the Ionian are widely acknowledged as the best available for the cruising sailor, combining the latest official survey data with first-hand information gathered by experienced cruising authors.
Lefkada: The Canal Entry, D-Marin and the Road South
Most passages into this part of the Ionian begin at Lefkada — specifically at D-Marin Lefkas, which sits at the gateway to everything south. D-Marin Lefkas is located at the northern end of Lefkada island, on the eastern shore of the narrow channel that separates the island from the Greek mainland, sitting inside the lagoon formed by this channel and offering excellent shelter from open-sea swells.
The approach demands attention. When approaching from the north, you pass through the Lefkada Canal, a shallow, dredged channel that connects the lagoon to the open sea near Aktion. Pay close attention to the channel markers — depths can be limited, and local knowledge or an up-to-date pilot book is strongly recommended for a first-time approach. The swing bridge at the southern end of the canal monitors VHF Channel 12 as “Floating Bridge Santa Maura” and publishes seasonal opening schedules, which can change — so check locally before timing your transit. The bridge opens for 10–15 minutes, or practically until the waiting vessels have passed.
Once through and moored, D-Marin Lefkas has mooring places for 620 boats up to 45 metres long. Depths alongside are generally 3–5 metres with stern-to berthing on laid moorings. Hail the marina on VHF Channel 69 on approach. Facilities include a fuel station at the entrance to the marina, toilet and shower blocks, and a laundromat. Book your berth well in advance for July and August — D-Marin fills quickly during peak charter season.
When you have provisioned and fuelled, head south on Lefkada’s east coast. The anchorage at Nidri is a useful overnight, and the scattered Meganisi channel offers several wild spots. But the destination that earns its column inches is Vasiliki, tucked into the wide bay on Lefkada’s southern tip. Vasiliki is a charming harbour town well known among sailors and windsurfers alike, its wide bay offering good shelter from most winds while the surrounding hills create a scenic backdrop. You can anchor off Vasiliki beach, but expect katabatic gusts of up to 30 knots starting around 13:00 and lasting until about 20:00. Drop anchor in around 5 metres over a sandy mud bottom, and knowing how hard the afternoon thermal can blow, pay out generous chain and dig in hard in reverse. The holding is excellent. The spectacle of a hundred windsurfers dancing across the bay as Eric fills in is one of the great free entertainments on the Ionian.
Kefalonia: Fiskardo, Assos and the Secret Coves
The 20-nautical-mile passage from Vasiliki south to Fiskardo is one of the finest short runs in this Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca. You will carry the NW breeze on your quarter, the sea stays flat inside the shelter of the islands, and Fiskardo opens on your port bow just as the afternoon peaks.
The approach to Fiskardo (38°27’31N / 020°34’58E) is free of dangers; the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified and guides you into the bay. Inbound, watch out for ferries that often arrive at fairly high speed and are not visible from a distance because of the lay of the coast.
Fiskardo is by far one of the most popular ports in the Ionian, for yachts, superyachts and tourists staying ashore. Berths are genuinely scarce in peak season. At Fiskardo, mooring options include the breakwater (depth 3.5–4 metres), the west dock (depth 2–3 metres), and if necessary the ferry dock on the north side, provided you vacate by 11:00. Stern-to on the east quay is the preferred option, away from the crossed-anchor chaos of the rest of the harbour. If the quay is full — and it often is — anchor along the north shore of the harbour in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks. Holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in.
One mile south of Fiskardo lies the cove of Foki, which quietly outshines its famous neighbour for an overnight. The cove is protected from the prevailing north-westerlies; drop the anchor in the middle and run stern lines to the northern rocks. Depths run 15–20 metres, so deploy as much chain as possible; the seabed is sand and provides good holding.
For those willing to push further south, Assos is the anchorage that stops conversation. Assos Bay offers perhaps the most spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay; surrounding cliffs provide complete wind protection, though space is limited to around 10–12 yachts, and the bay maintains consistent depths of 4–8 metres with excellent holding in sand and weed. Land access is limited enough that arriving by boat still feels like an arrival that means something.
For a fuel stop and serious provisioning, make for Argostoli, the island’s capital. Berthing is stern-to or alongside, with depths typically 3–3.5 metres alongside; the port supports 200+ berths with access to water, electricity, fuel, sanitary facilities, chandlery and technical services — the only location on the island with meaningful yacht support capability. Argostoli provides the most comprehensive provisioning on Kefalonia, with supermarkets including AB Vasilopoulos, Lidl and Sklavenitis all within reach.
Ithaca: Vathy, Kioni and the Water Only Accessible by Boat
The passage from Fiskardo or Assos east across to Ithaca takes under two hours in settled conditions. The primary approaches are from north and south via the channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia; the channel is deep and clear, with depths of 50–150 metres mid-channel, though wind acceleration and short seas occur with NW winds, particularly in the northern entrance. Keep an eye on the Maistros as it funnels through — it builds quickly here.
The main port, Vathy, lies on the south-east coast and is entered through a narrow, well-defined inlet. Depths reduce from 30–40 metres outside to 10–15 metres at the entrance, then 5–8 metres inside the bay; the entrance is free of hazards but requires accurate alignment, and once inside, the bay is fully enclosed and sheltered.
The port of Vathy is a natural harbour providing excellent anchorage, known from Homeric times as particularly sheltered; it is protected from all winds except the north-west, which blows in gusts. Anchor close to the town centre for shallower depths, or south-west of Lazaretto islet for reduced wind exposure — expect NW gusts, but the bottom is mud and holding is excellent. Ithaca’s marina in Vathy has pontoon berths, laid lines and full services including water, electricity, fuel and shore facilities.
The real prize on Ithaca is Kioni, four miles north of Vathy by water. Kioni is most picturesque, set at the head of a natural rocky cleft and surrounded by pine, olive and cypress trees. The depth in the middle of the bay drops off past 15 metres, so watch your depth gauge carefully before dropping, and have lines ready to take ashore. The typical north-westerly wind in the afternoon can be strong in the bay, but swell is minimal. Arrive by 14:00 — Kioni fills early, and late arrivals find themselves anchored further out with a longer dinghy ride. The waterfront tavernas are just steps from where you tie your dinghy; walk 20 minutes up to the ruined windmills on the south side for sweeping views over the bay and the Ithaca channel toward Kefalonia.
On Ithaca’s western side, Polis Bay near Stavros is the anchorage that rewards those who seek it out. Polis Bay is on the west coast of Ithaca opposite Fiskardo and makes a great overnight anchorage with a traditional Greek village at the top of the hill called Stavros. In the square is a model of the nearby ruins believed to be Odysseus’ palace, and the bay itself has some interesting history including the Cave of Louizos and a very old church built into the hillside. Many of Ithaca’s best anchorages are accessible only by boat, rewarding crews with clear water, quiet surroundings and dramatic landscapes rather than organised facilities.
Practical Notes: Fuel, Charts and Booking Ahead
Fuel is the first variable to nail down. In Lefkada, there is a fuel station at the entrance to D-Marin marina. In Kefalonia, Fiskardo has a fuel point at the harbour and Argostoli offers the most comprehensive supply. On Ithaca, Vathy marina can arrange fuel delivery by tanker — there is no fuel at Kioni; top up before arrival, as the closest supply is at Fiskardo or Sami.
For berth reservations at D-Marin Lefkas and Argostoli, Navionics Active Captain community notes are invaluable for current depth and hazard data alongside your official charts. Pair these with a reputable Ionian-specific charter platform — operators with deep local knowledge who can advise on specific berth availability and anchorage conditions island by island.
- VHF Channel 69 — D-Marin Lefkas marina
- VHF Channel 12 — Lefkada floating bridge (“Floating Bridge Santa Maura”)
- VHF Channel 16 — distress and calling, monitored throughout the Ionian
- Fiskardo approach waypoint — 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E, free of hazards
- Vathy (Ithaca) inlet — narrow and well-defined; enter on a bearing that keeps you mid-channel
The Itinerary: A Classic Seven-Day Circuit
This is the route the Nautiful team reaches for when we have a week and an open bow thruster. It works in either direction, though northbound from Kefalonia in July makes best use of the afternoon Maistros on your beam.
- Day 1: Arrive D-Marin Lefkas. Provision. Transit the canal bridge south. Anchor Nidri or Meganisi.
- Day 2: South to Vasiliki. Anchor in 5 metres on sand/mud. Watch Eric arrive on schedule.
- Day 3: Early morning departure south-east. Fiskardo by lunchtime. Stern-to east quay or anchor north shore in 10–12m.
- Day 4: Foki cove for the morning. Anchor in 15–20m, lines to the rocks. Afternoon: round north Kefalonia, head east.
- Day 5: Polis Bay, Ithaca west coast. Anchor and take the dinghy ashore to Stavros.
- Day 6: Motor south to Vathy. Anchor in the bay or take a marina berth. Dinghy to the waterfront for dinner.
- Day 7: North through the Ithaca-Kefalonia channel. Kioni by early afternoon. Stern-to or long line to the rocks. Leave late next morning.
The Ionian at Its Best — From the Water
What the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca cannot fully convey is the particular silence that settles over these anchorages once the Maistros dies. Many of Ithaca’s — and the wider Ionian’s — best anchorages are accessible only by boat, rewarding crews with clear water, quiet surroundings and dramatic landscapes. That is the essential truth of this cruising ground: it gives more to those who arrive from the sea.
The exceptional water clarity, often exceeding 30 metres’ visibility, allows you to see your anchor and assess the seabed conditions easily — which means you also watch it holding, which means you sleep. That is the best thing that can be said about any anchorage.
Load your Navionics charts, book your D-Marin berth as early as you can, and get here before July fills every quay from Fiskardo to Kioni. The southern Ionian rewards the prepared and the early-rising in equal measure. For more destination guides, gear reviews and skipper knowledge written entirely from the water, subscribe to the Nautiful newsletter at nautiful.com — and we will meet you at the next anchorage.