There are cruising grounds that earn their reputation, and then there are the southern Ionian Islands — a tri-island arc that makes every other Med passage feel like a rehearsal. The Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is a story told entirely from the helm: approach bearings in the early-morning glass, the rumble of twin Volvo IPS as you enter a channel scented with pine, stern-to manoeuvres in a harbourmaster’s small hours. This is motorboating distilled to its finest, and the Nautiful team has spent enough seasons here to know every wrinkle in the wind.
Reading the Ionian Before You Leave the Dock
Before you advance the throttle, understand the rhythm that governs every passage across Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca. The main summer wind in the Ionian is the Maistro, a mild-mannered NW breeze that runs from late May to late September — in the height of summer, it is said you can set your watch to it: not a breath before 11 am, then a gradually building medium breeze ideal for an afternoon run, fading just before dusk. For motor yacht skippers, this translates into a golden planning window: depart before 09:00, cover your miles in the glass-calm morning, anchor by lunch.
Compared to the Aegean, you are sheltered here from the notorious Meltemi gales. The typical summer wind is the Maistro, blowing from the northwest and building only by midday. In narrow areas like the Lefkada–Meganisi channel, wind speeds can accelerate noticeably, giving an extra push. At night, cooler air slides down from mountain slopes — especially on Kefalonia — causing brief gusts in anchorages. Plan for those katabatic ambushes with an extra 15 metres of chain and a well-set anchor, and you will sleep soundly.
For chart planning, we rely on the Navionics Boating app with the Adriatic and Ionian chart layer, used alongside the Imray Chart G12 South Ionian Islands (2024 edition), covering Nisos Levkas to Nisos Zakinthos and including harbour plans for the Levkas Canal, Aetou Bay in northern Ithaca, and Argostoli on Kefalonia. The chart is designed to be used alongside Imray pilot guides and is printed on water-resistant Pretex paper, including many anchorages and inlets not shown on official charts. Consider it essential carry aboard.
Lefkada: The Canal, the Marina and the East-Coast Circuit
Arriving at Lefkada from the north means threading the famous Lefkada Canal — a dredged passage connecting the lagoon to the open Ionian near Aktion. When approaching from the north, you pass through this shallow channel; depths can be limited, and local knowledge or an up-to-date pilot book is strongly recommended for a first-time approach. The critical choreography comes next: the floating bridge is one of the most talked-about features of this approach. It opens only at scheduled times throughout the day to allow vessels to pass. If you are arriving from the north or planning to depart northward, you must time your passage carefully to align with the bridge opening schedule. The bridge opens for 10–15 minutes, or until the waiting vessels have passed. Theoretically, during the night (23:00–07:00), it will open on request on VHF Channel 12 if a vessel is waiting — but don’t count on it.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas Marina is your base of operations. The total capacity is 620 berths for vessels up to 45 metres in length, with a maximum draft of 4 metres, plus 280 dry berths. Contact the marina on VHF Channel 69 on arrival and proceed to the office for check-in. All berths are equipped with electricity (220V and 380V) and fresh water. The marina lies inside a long, L-shaped wavebreak pontoon sheltering berths from east and north, with entry from the south between the wavebreak pontoon and the jetty carrying the fuel berth at its end.
The east-coast circuit south of the marina is where Lefkada earns its reputation. Vlicho Bay is a long, sheltered, natural bay on the eastern coast just south of Nidri. Its calm waters and excellent protection from all wind directions make it one of the safest anchorages in the Ionian, even during strong blows, and it is popular among cruisers for extended stays thanks to its easy anchoring, good holding and proximity to yacht services. Further south, Sivota is one of the best-known anchorages in the Ionian sailing circuit. The bay’s deep water, sheltered geometry, and fish-taverna waterfront make it a natural overnight stop on Lefkada–Meganisi–Kefalonia routes. The bottom is sand and weed with good holding in 7–10 metres depth. Anchor early in July and August — by 14:00 this bay carries more keels than a boatyard. Launch the tender and walk the waterfront for grilled octopus at any of the quayside tavernas.
The Passage South: Lefkada to Kefalonia
The run from Sivota to Fiskardo on Kefalonia’s northern tip is one of the finest motor yacht passages in Greek waters: roughly 18 nautical miles of open Ionian water, best covered in the morning before the Maistro builds. Expect stronger gusts along the west coast and calmer seas to the east. Daytime temperatures on Kefalonia generally range from 28–32°C, with good visibility. Winds are typically lighter than in the Aegean, with the north-westerly afternoon sea-breeze pattern developing and easing overnight, resulting in generally manageable sea states in coastal waters. Keep the west coast of Meganisi to port as you run south, and you will arrive off Fiskardo’s lighthouse mid-morning with flat water and a parking space.
This is the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide section that gets most used. Fiskardo is the crown jewel: Fiskardo is a charming and well-sheltered small harbour at the northeast end of Kefalonia. Because the town was not destroyed by the 1953 earthquake that flattened most of Kefalonia, it remains the most architecturally picturesque town on the island — and the harbour is almost always crowded, paying to arrive early especially in July and August. Approach bearing 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E WGS84, free of dangers; the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified and will guide you to the bay. Go stern or bows-to the quay where space is available, except the SW corner which is reserved for fishing boats. Along the north shore of the harbour there is an anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks. Holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in.
Kefalonia’s Hidden Anchorages: Assos and Beyond
Most charter fleets spend one night in Fiskardo and motor south — which is exactly why you should not. The coastline between Fiskardo and Assos rewards the skipper who plans a second day on Kefalonia’s northwest shore. Fóki, the first inlet south of Fiskardo, has no major touristic development; anchor in 3–5 metres. Continue south and the limestone cliffs build until the peninsula of Assos appears with its Venetian fortress dominating the skyline from the north.
Assos lies in Assos Bay on the northwest of Kefalonia. The small natural harbour is popular with water sports enthusiasts, although it is not protected from the prevailing winds and therefore very rarely suitable for mooring overnight. Go stern or bows-to the mole with a long line ashore, keeping distance from the mole which is bordered by rocks. Free anchoring or a long line to the rocks in the bay is an alternative — the bay runs 7–12 metres deep but holding is not good everywhere, so let out as much scope as possible. This is a lunch anchorage, not a night stop in any NW wind. But the swim off a motor tender into turquoise water below those Venetian walls is worth every navigation minute to get here.
Antisamos Beach provides the opportunity to anchor in private bays with impossibly blue waters on the island’s east coast, accessible by motor tender for a swim stop before continuing south to Sami. Chart accuracy in the main approaches to Argostoli, Sami and Fiskardo is high; it is lower in remote or nearshore areas where older or sparse survey data may exist, so treat charts as guidance rather than absolute reference in less-visited bays. This is exactly why we overlay the Navionics SonarChart live depth data when poking into uncharted coves — in 35°C heat with a chilled Assyrtiko in the cupholder, running aground is the only thing that would spoil the afternoon.
Ithaca: Odysseus’ Harbour, Homer’s Depths
From Fiskardo, Ithaca is less than 4 nautical miles across the channel — close enough to see the hills from the cockpit, far enough to feel the passage. Vathy (meaning “deep”), the main harbour and administrative centre of Ithaca, lies at the head of one of the most naturally sheltered bays in the Ionian Sea. The entrance is narrow and well defined, opening into a long, enclosed inlet. The town of Vathy cannot be identified until you sail right into the bay. The chapel and lighthouse on Ak.Ay. Andreou are easily identified and will guide you straight in. Care is needed as the prevailing afternoon winds gust from the NW, and ferries going in and out of the harbour may not be seen until they round the headland.
Vathy provides anchoring in 5–10 metres over mud with reliable holding and high shelter from all directions. Anchoring in the bay is common since quay spaces fill quickly. Aim to anchor close to the town centre for shallower depths, or southwest of Lazaretto islet for reduced wind exposure. Expect NW gusts. The bottom is mud and holding is excellent. There is no large full-service marina on Ithaca; berthing is primarily in Vathy harbour and at several smaller ports.
On the east coast of Ithaca, do not miss Kioni: Kioni is a pretty and surprisingly traditional village under wonderfully wooded hills. The three ruins of windmills on Cape Psigadi will guide you on the approach. Kioni Bay provides anchoring in 5–10 metres over mud and sand with good holding and protection from prevailing winds, though limited space is available. The real prize for the motorboat skipper is Gidaki Beach: Gidaki, at approximately 38°23.160′N, 20°43.975′E, is one of Ithaca’s most beautiful beaches with turquoise waters. It can only be reached by boat or via a long and demanding walk. Depths increase rapidly, so try to anchor as close to the beach as possible — around the yellow swimming buoys the depth is about 8 metres. Launch the tender, float in the shallows, and accept that you’ve found the reason motorboating in Greece exists.
Practical Intelligence: Fuel, Provisions and Timing
The Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide is only useful if it tells you where to fill the tanks. Fuel is concentrated at Lefkada Town in the channel and marina area, including Lefkas Marina, where marine diesel is available via a fixed fuel berth and road tanker delivery directly to quay berths. Fuelling is coordinated around bridge opening times and traffic. At Fiskardo, fuel supplies are limited and best sourced by calling ahead; at Vathy, you will find water, fuel, a small supermarket, and a chandlery.
- Lefkas Marina (D-Marin): VHF Channel 69. Fuel berth at the southern jetty. Diesel and water. Full chandlery and 150T travel lift for haulout.
- Fiskardo, Kefalonia: Approach bearing 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E. Stern-to quay. Water on quay. Ask locally for fuel delivery.
- Vathy, Ithaca: Town quay, stern-to in 4–8 metres. Fuel at the waterfront. Provisioning by dinghy to the square-side minimarkets — a 2-minute ride from anchor.
- Sivota, Lefkada: The village offers several small grocery stores, bakeries, and fresh produce markets, plus a variety of local tavernas and cafes.
- Weather broadcasts: VHF forecasts for all Greek waters are broadcast in Greek and English at 06:00, 10:00, 16:00, and 22:00 local time. Gale warnings are given at the beginning of each broadcast, with a security warning on Ch 16.
For anchorage-level detail we complement Navionics with the Imray G12 South Ionian Islands chart, which includes detailed harbour plans for the Levkas Canal (1:20,000), Aetou Bay Ithaca (1:32,500), and Argostoli Kefalonia (1:25,000), combining the latest official survey data with first-hand information. For marina bookings — especially at the D-Marin Lefkas in high season — we recommend locking in a berth 48 hours in advance via the marina’s direct booking system. In August, a 15-metre motor yacht arriving without a reservation will find the pontoon master’s sympathetic shrug the only available berth.
The Route in Summary: Seven Days, Three Islands
The compact geometry of this cruising ground is its greatest gift. Summer winds average 10–15 knots from the Maistros NW thermal, and the islands cluster within 15–25 nautical miles of each other. A well-run itinerary from Lefkas Marina looks like this:
- Day 1–2, Lefkada: Transit the canal, berth at D-Marin. Anchor Vlicho Bay and Sivota. Dine by tender at Basilico in Nidri or the waterfront tavernas at Sivota.
- Day 3, Passage to Kefalonia: Early start, glass-calm crossing. Arrive Fiskardo by 11:00 before the quay fills. Swim the north-shore anchorage.
- Day 4, Kefalonia West Coast: Fóki cove for a morning swim. Lunch anchor off Assos below the Venetian fortress. Overnight Sami.
- Day 5–6, Ithaca: Cross the Ithaca Channel to Vathy. Explore by tender: Gidaki Beach by morning, Kioni quay for dinner. Frikes for a quiet overnight.
- Day 7, Return to Lefkada: Morning departure northbound. Quick lunch stop at Sivota — the “island in a bay” — before the final leg to the marina.
This is the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide in practice: not a list of places, but a sequence of experiences that only makes sense when you’re arriving by water. The tourist who drove to Assos saw a pretty village. You arrived under the Venetian walls from the sea, swam off the bow, and felt something entirely different.
Ready to Cast Off?
The southern Ionian is the most forgiving, most beautiful, and most underestimated motor boating circuit in the Mediterranean. Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca reward the prepared skipper and punish complacency — a loose anchor in Sivota or an unplanned Fiskardo arrival at 16:00 in August will teach lessons quickly. Load your Navionics Ionian chart layer, carry the Imray G12, book your D-Marin Lefkas berth well in advance, and follow the Maistro south.
The Nautiful team returns here every season. We always find something we missed the time before — a cove north of Fóki, a taverna in Kioni with better octopus than last year, a morning in Vathy’s mud-holding anchorage so quiet you can hear the bell buoy breathe. The Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is a living document for us. It should be for you too.
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