Picture this: the throttles ease back, the bow settles, and through the windscreen you pick up that unmistakable line of white cliffs above a turquoise channel. You’re inbound to the Southern Ionian — and the three islands that make it one of Europe’s most rewarding motor cruising grounds are laid out ahead. This is our Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca — written for the skipper at the helm, not the tourist in the hire car.
Why the Southern Ionian Is a Motor Cruiser’s Dream
The Ionian is not the Aegean. While boats to the east wrestle with the famous Meltemi, skippers in these waters enjoy something far more civilised. The primary summer wind is the Maistros (Maestro), a north-westerly sea breeze that builds gently around midday, peaks in the afternoon at Force 3–5, and dies down by sunset. For a motor cruiser — a Sunseeker Predator 65, a Princess V55, an Azimut S7 — that rhythm is almost perfect. Mornings are glassy flat for long passages; afternoons offer a cooling breeze and playful chop that barely troubles a planing hull. The Ionian experiences lighter NW winds — Force 2–5 most days — and is known for flat seas and a predictable daily wind cycle of calm mornings and moderate afternoons. Rain is practically nonexistent in mid-summer, and skies are typically cloud-free.
Temperatures hit 35°C on deck by July, so your air conditioning plant will earn its keep, and sun awning deployment becomes a morning ritual before the first swim stop. The water temperature climbs to 25°C in July and August — ideal for swimming and snorkelling. From the helm of a twin-screw express cruiser, Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca sit within range of each other. Plan for passages of 15–35 nautical miles between main ports — comfortable half-day runs that leave plenty of time to explore by tender.
Before leaving the dock, load Navionics+ on your chartplotter or tablet. Navionics charts can be constantly updated online, so you are relatively sure to be well supplied with charts. The Southern Ionian is well-surveyed in the main channels and approaches, but local hazards in smaller coves reward careful chart work.
Lefkada: Through the Bridge and Into the Heart of It
Most skippers approaching from the north — from Preveza or the Ambracian Gulf — will transit the Lefkada Channel from the landward side. The Lefkada Floating Bridge controls access to the Lefkada channel. It operates on a fixed schedule with periodic openings during the day, during which all road traffic is stopped and marine traffic is managed in sequence. From 08:00 to 22:00, there is a full rotation of the bridge every hour. From 23:00 to 07:00 the bridge rotates fully only if there is a ship, on request via VHF 12. Note: due to an ongoing underwater pipeline project in 2026, opening times for yachts and vessels are temporarily irregular. Monitor VHF 16 and check with the bridge on VHF 12 before your approach.
Depths in the channel are maintained by dredging and are typically around 3–5 m, with strong crosswinds and current effects possible during transit; holding position while waiting for opening requires control due to confined space and traffic density. For a deep-draught express cruiser, this is tight but entirely manageable in calm conditions. Keep strictly within the buoyed channel — strongly advised not to leave the path marked by the buoys inside the channel, or you may run into difficulties.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas Marina is your first major base. The total capacity of the marina is 620 berths up to a maximum length of 45 metres (40 for stern berths) and a draught of 4 m. Hail the marina on VHF channel 69 on approach. Facilities include a fuel station at the marina entrance, toilet/shower blocks, and a laundromat. Two travel lifts — one 150-ton and one 70-ton — plus a 60-ton mobile crane mean serious technical backup if something goes wrong. It is one of the most expensive marinas in Greece, with daily berthing charges in high season among the highest in the Southern Ionian. Budget accordingly for a quality base.
From Lefkada, work south down the eastern coast. Additional berthing is available at Nidri and other east coast ports. Nidri is charter-boat central in July and August — busy, social, and well-provisioned. Marine diesel is available at the channel and marina area; fuelling is coordinated around bridge opening times and traffic. At the southern tip, Vasiliki rewards the effort of getting there: the seabed rises sharply, giving good holding when stern-to the quays. Prevailing winds are NW–N, and the berths along the quay just west of the ferry are premium. Fair warning: an anabatic wind nicknamed “Eric” should be noted when entering Vasiliki — it rolls in from midday onwards and can go from F1 to F5+ in a matter of minutes. Arrive before noon, or be ready to handle it.
Kefalonia: Big Island, Serious Anchorages
The channel run from Lefkada to Kefalonia is one of the finest passages in the entire Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide. Approaches to Kefalonia are made in open Ionian waters with generally deep, steep-to coastlines, allowing close approach in depths typically exceeding 30–100 metres. The island is prominent, with high terrain providing clear visual identification, and access routes are straightforward from all directions, particularly via the channel with Ithaca on the east side.
Mount Ainos, rising to over 1,600 metres, acts as a natural windbreak, creating lee shores along much of the coastline. The island’s dramatic limestone cliffs and deep-water approaches provide excellent shelter from prevailing northwesterly winds, while crystal-clear waters offer superb visibility for anchoring and swimming. The island’s geological structure forms numerous protected coves and inlets that remain calm even when open waters experience rougher conditions.
Your first landfall call should be Fiskardo, on Kefalonia’s northern tip — arguably the most glamorous stop on this entire stretch of coast. There are no dangers in the approach. Fiskardo harbour can be difficult to spot when arriving from the north, but the old Venetian lighthouse on the headland on the N side and the taller, modern lighthouse above it are conspicuous once close in. You can reach Fiskardo Marina Kefalonia by calling VHF 12. Quay space is fought over in July and August. Stern-to on the quay if you are lucky to find a space. The harbour master will keep the ferry quay and tripper boat quay free until late afternoon so don’t be fooled by a large space — you’ll soon be ushered away. Stern-to on the east quay is fine, and not involved in the carnage of the rest of the harbour with crossed anchors. If the quay is full, along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks.
Fiskardo is one of the few villages not touched by the major earthquake of 1953, leaving its Venetian waterfront intact. Send the tender in to the high-quality restaurants lining Fiskardo’s harbour front — Elli’s and Apagio’s both offer Greek cuisine with an elegant modern twist. For provisioning, there are supermarkets, ATMs, cafés, and gift shops ashore.
Heading south, Assos Bay is a must-anchor. Assos Bay offers perhaps the most spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay. The surrounding cliffs provide complete wind protection, though space is limited to around 10–12 yachts. The bay maintains consistent depths of 4–8 metres with excellent holding in sand and weed. Go early — in high season the bay fills before noon.
For provisioning and technical support, make for Argostoli. Argostoli provides the most developed berthing facilities on Kefalonia, with extensive town quay berthing and a municipal marina area. Berthing is stern-to or alongside, with depths typically 3–3.5 metres alongside and deeper water in the approach channel. The port supports ~200+ berths, with access to water, electricity, fuel, sanitary facilities, chandlery, and technical services. Argostoli provides the most comprehensive provisioning on Kefalonia, with multiple supermarkets including AB Vasilopoulos, Lidl, and Sklavenitis. Stock the boat here before heading on to Ithaca.
One anchorage that earns its place in any serious Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide is Antisamos Bay, on the east coast near Sami. Antisamos Bay offers one of the most secluded and pristine anchoring experiences around Kefalonia, providing exceptional natural beauty with minimal development, accessible primarily by yacht. Anchor in 8–12 metres over a clean sandy bottom, launch the tender, and swim in water so clear it looks computer-generated.
The Kefalonia–Ithaca Channel: A Passage Worth Savouring
The 3-nautical-mile strait between Kefalonia and Ithaca is where this cruising ground shows its best face. Primary approaches to Ithaca are from the north and south via the channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia. The channel is deep and clear with depths of 50–150 m mid-channel, shoaling to 20–40 m within 1 NM of either coast. Wind acceleration and short seas occur with NW winds, particularly in the northern entrance. In an express cruiser the passage takes minutes at cruise speed — but slow down and enjoy it. The mountains of both islands drop almost vertically into the channel, green pine and grey limestone above blue-black water. It is one of those views that makes ownership feel entirely worthwhile.
For the best Navionics chart overlays on this passage — and detailed waypoint tracks through the channel — check out the Navionics Boating App (subscription from approximately €29.99/year for the Western Europe chart region). The vector charts render beautifully at depth, and the community edit layer flags several unmarked hazards near the northern Ithaca approaches that are worth noting.
Ithaca: Odysseus’s Island, Anchored in Reality
Homer’s island delivers — and then some. Vathy (Βαθύ), the main harbour and administrative centre of Ithaca, lies at the head of one of the most naturally sheltered bays in the Ionian Sea. The entrance is narrow and well defined, opening into a long, enclosed inlet. Approaching from the south or through the Kefalonia channel, the entrance presents as a simple gap in the hillside — you’d almost motor past it without the chart. Inside, the town is built in an amphitheatrical layout around the harbour, with pastel and terracotta tile-roofed houses ascending the hillside in classic Venetian style. In the middle of the bay lies the iconic Lazaretto islet, crowned by a tiny chapel dating back to the 17th century.
In Vathy, yachts berth stern-to or alongside on the town quay, with depths typically 4–7 m alongside. Mooring is by own anchor with stern lines ashore; there are no laid moorings. Around 20 yachts can anchor-moor at the quay in depths ranging from 4.0 metres at the north end to 3.5 metres at the south end. There are tyre fenders along the quay. The holding here is reasonable in soft mud and weed once the anchor is well dug in, but it can require two or three attempts. The bay is known to be susceptible to gusts from the north-west, with winds reaching up to 25–30 knots. Set your anchor deeply, run long stern lines to the rings, and don’t be shy about re-anchoring if the first set doesn’t feel solid. The harbour fills quickly during high season, so arrive early to secure a berth.
For fuel and water, there is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy (fuel, lubricants, water). Take the tender for provisioning — the town supermarkets and bakeries are within easy walking distance of the waterfront.
North of Vathy, Kioni is the village that earned its postcard-perfect reputation honestly. Kioni is a pretty and surprisingly traditional village under wonderfully wooded hills. The three ruins of windmills on Cape Psigadi will guide you on the approach. The best berths are stern-to at the quay near the green harbour light. To cope with violent westerly gusts, take a wide-angled line from the midship cleat to the quay. The muddy seabed provides perfect holding and, despite the mud, the water is clear and clean. Dine ashore at the quayside tavernas — reachable by passerelle or a ten-second dinghy hop.
For a completely private swim stop that no land tourist can reach, nudge the bow towards Polis Bay on Ithaca’s west coast. The bay has some interesting history including the Cave of Louizos and a very old church built into the hillside behind the beach café. The bay is quite deep — you can long-line on the north or south shore, or free-swing in the middle, mooring can be challenging as you will be anchoring in 10–20 m and the bottom is quite weedy, so it may take a few tries before your anchor holds. Settle for the night only with a clean forecast.
Practical Skipper Notes: Planning and Booking
- Best season: Late spring and early autumn offer warm weather with smaller crowds. For motor cruising, June and September are the sweet spots — fewer charter flotillas, berths easier to find, air temperature still comfortable at 28–32°C.
- Peak season strategy: Harbours fill up as early as noon for those wanting the most sought-after spaces on the quayside. Adopt a 07:00 departure from your current anchorage if you want the quay at Fiskardo or Kioni.
- Marina booking: Pre-booking at D-Marin Lefkas is strongly recommended for July and August, either directly via the marina or through Seasy or Navily marina-booking platforms. Navily also provides community-sourced anchorage reports — useful for last-minute wind and depth checks.
- Charter operators: If you’re chartering rather than bringing your own boat, Lefkada is the primary base. Both Lefkada city and Nidri are bases for yacht charters and are a 50–60 minute drive from Aktion National Airport. Several specialist companies operate motor yacht charters from D-Marin Lefkas, with vessels ranging from Jeanneau Merry Fisher day cruisers to Azimut 50 flybridge models.
- Katabatic gusts: Local katabatic effects mean you can’t always rely on forecast models. Always have a secondary anchorage in mind before committing to a stop for the night, particularly on Ithaca’s east coast where valley winds accelerate sharply after dark.
- West coasts in summer: The wide bays at the western coast of the islands — Lefkada, Kefalonia, Zante — are not suitable to stay overnight at anchor, as waves from the open sea can come in strong at any time. Keep your overnight stops on the eastern and northern shores.
The Nautiful Verdict
This trio of islands — Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca — forms the backbone of the best Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide experience available to a motor cruiser in the entire Mediterranean. The passages are short enough to feel relaxed, the anchorages deep enough to take any boat up to 45 metres, and the harbours — from the full-service infrastructure of D-Marin Lefkas to the atmospheric town quay at Vathy — reward both the meticulous planner and the impulsive anchorage-hunter.
You’ll push through the Lefkada Channel bridge with the morning light flat on the water, run south past Nidri’s forested hills, thread through the Kefalonia–Ithaca channel at dusk with the limestone glowing orange, and drop anchor in