There is a triangle in the southern Ionian that makes every other Mediterranean cruising ground feel overrated. Drop a waypoint off the northwest tip of Kefalonia, punch in Fiskardo to the north and Vathy on Ithaca to the east, and you have mapped, roughly, the operating theatre for one of the finest motorboat passages in Europe. The Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca that follows is written for skippers already at sea — throttle set, chartplotter lit — not for people browsing holiday brochures from an armchair.
Reading the Ionian Before You Leave the Dock
Understanding the Ionian’s wind logic transforms the way you plan every passage in this region. The primary summer wind is the Maistros, a north-westerly sea breeze that builds gently around midday, peaks in the afternoon at Force 3–5, and dies down by sunset. In the height of summer, it is said that you can set your watch to the wind — not a breath before 11am, then a gradually building medium breeze, before the wind goes to sleep shortly before dusk. For a motorboat crew, that is a gift: leave anchor at first light, cruise the morning glass, and be stern-to on a quay before the chop builds. The prevailing wind is channelled and funnelled by the significant mountainous land masses in its way, so it can vary in strength and direction quite quickly.
The Ionian is largely protected from the strong, gusty Meltemi wind that dominates the Aegean Sea, which means your GRP topsides stay clean and your passengers stay comfortable. Even so, katabatic gusts spilling down from the steep terrain are common, sometimes strong and localised, making careful positioning and generous scope essential. Load the Navionics Boating app covering the Adriatic and Ionian Sea before departure — its community depth sounder overlays and detailed anchorage data are worth every cent of the annual subscription and will be your most-used tool across all three islands.
Lefkada: Threading the Canal, Then Owning the Lagoon
Your first challenge on any Lefkada circuit is the canal itself. Throughout the channel the depth is about 3.5 metres, so even larger boats will have no problems. The trick is the floating bridge — known locally as the “Agia Mavra.” According to the latest update from Lefkada Port Authority, as of 29 June 2026 the schedule of the Lefkas canal bridge returns to normal; until 15 September 2026 the bridge will open for marine traffic at 08:00, 10:00, 14:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00, and 22:00. Miss a slot and you wait up to three hours — plan your transit around the 08:00 opening and you will motor out into the inner sea with the whole day ahead of you. The bridge monitors VHF Channel 12, and it pays to call ahead.
Once through, D-Marin Lefkas is a state-of-the-art private marina built in 2002 right next to the old public port, offering much more than just a berth with a wide range of services. The total capacity is 620 berths up to a maximum length of 45 metres and a draft of 4 metres, with 280 dry berths. Contact the marina via VHF on channel 69 and go to the office to process check-in paperwork. If you prefer the old-school approach, some 40–50 yachts can moor stern or bows-to on the first 200 metres of the town quay using their anchors, with depths of 2.5–4.0 metres alongside and anchoring depths around 8.0 metres; holding is moderate to good in mud, though it requires some effort to dig in the anchor.
South of the canal, the east coast is where the Ionian reveals its real character. Additional berthing is available at Nidri and other east coast ports. Nidri itself is worth anchoring off: anchor in mud in 5–7 metres depth with excellent holding. Step ashore by dinghy to the Avra Taverna — a family business operating continuously since 1959, its privileged location on the beach of Nidri offers views of the surrounding islands including Madouri and Skorpios. Maïstráli, right on the harbour, is another favourite: a charming and cozy taverna located on the harbour offering an authentic Greek dining experience, despite its small size exuding rustic charm and a warm, welcoming atmosphere, with a menu featuring traditional Greek dishes not commonly found elsewhere.
Kefalonia: Big Island, Deep Water, Serious Choices
The Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide would be incomplete without dedicating proper space to Kefalonia — the most geographically dramatic of the three islands under our thumb. Approaches to Kefalonia are made in open Ionian waters with generally deep, steep-to coastlines, allowing close approach in depths typically exceeding 30–100 metres. Mount Ainos, rising to over 1,600 metres, acts as a natural windbreak, creating lee shores along much of the coastline.
Fiskardo in the north is where most motor cruisers point first, and the approach is clean. Approach Fiskardo at 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E — free of dangers, the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified and will guide you to the bay. Entry is made into a small, enclosed natural harbour on the north coast, approached in deep water of 10–20 metres; the entrance is clear and well defined, though space inside is limited. Along the north shore of the harbour there is a good anchorage for 10–12 yachts in depths of 10–12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks; holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in. Beware of ferries entering and leaving at speed, which will not be seen until around the headland if approaching from the north.
Fiskardo Bay and Assos Bay provide the most reliable protection from seasonal winds in northern Kefalonia; Fiskardo offers comprehensive shelter from westerly and northwesterly winds, with depths ranging from 3–15 metres and excellent holding ground. Agia Efimia on the east coast is the practical choice for a fuel-and-provision stop: it provides a purpose-used yacht harbour with quay berthing commonly used by charter vessels, with stern-to berthing in depths typically 3–5 metres alongside and good holding in adjacent anchorage areas; facilities include water and electricity with local support services available, but no full marina infrastructure; the harbour offers good all-round shelter except in strong easterlies.
The relatively sheltered channel between Kefalonia and Ithaca provides a safe and interesting cruising area, ideal for both beginner and experienced captains. Running your motorboat south through this channel in the morning calm is one of those passages you will remember for seasons. Just keep in mind that the wind picks up in the afternoon, so it can be a bit choppy if you return to the Kefalonia coast later in the day. Factor that into your turnaround time and you will not be fighting a short steep chop on a beam crossing.
For provisioning at scale, head for Argostoli: berthing is stern-to or alongside, with depths typically 3–3.5 metres alongside and deeper water in the approach channel; the port supports 200+ berths, with access to water, electricity, fuel, sanitary facilities, chandlery, and technical services. Argostoli provides the most comprehensive provisioning on Kefalonia, with multiple supermarkets including AB Vasilopoulos, Lidl, and Sklavenitis. Take the dinghy in, load the trolleys, and be back aboard before the afternoon breeze makes the dinghy ride uncomfortable.
Ithaca: Homer’s Harbour, Still Doing It Right
Of all the destinations in this Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca, Vathy on Ithaca is the one that consistently silences the cockpit. The main port on the island of Ithaca is Vathy, which along with the village of the same name lies at the bottom of a very wide and sheltered natural inlet with a distinctive “mushroom” shape. Approach slowly — the bay, open to the northwest, offers good shelter from northerly winds but is subject to strong gusts especially at its opening, due to a sea breeze that mounts almost every afternoon and can become even moderately strong.
The main yacht quay is immediately obvious on the southwest side of the harbour. Around 20 yachts can anchor-moor at the quay in depths ranging from 4.0 metres at the north end to 3.5 metres at the south end. There are tyre fenders along the quay. If the quay is full — and in peak July and August it will be by 14:00 — anchor out. Vathy provides anchoring in 5–10 metres over mud with reliable holding and high shelter from all directions. Anchoring in the bay is common since quay spaces fill quickly; aim to anchor close to the town centre for shallower depths or southwest of Lazaretto islet for reduced wind exposure.
There is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy for fuel, lubricants and water. For dinner, walk fifty metres along the harbourfront — the restaurants are genuinely good, and tables spill onto the waterfront within sight of your transom. North of Vathy, Kioni exudes a storybook Ionian vibe with its pastel houses, ancient windmills, and a small harbour that often brims with visiting yachts in summer. Kioni Bay provides anchoring in 5–10 metres over mud and sand with good holding and protection from prevailing winds, though limited space is available. Come early or anchor and take the tender in. Frikes on Ithaca’s northeast coast offers moorings for those wanting a calmer atmosphere and easy access to scenic local tavernas. Frikes provides anchoring in 5–8 metres over mud with good holding and moderate shelter.
One anchorage that demands a detour: Ormos Sarakiniko on Ithaca’s east coast — many of Ithaca’s best anchorages are accessible only by boat, rewarding crews with clear water, quiet surroundings, and dramatic landscapes rather than organised facilities. The exceptional water clarity, often exceeding 30 metres’ visibility, allows you to see your anchor and assess the seabed conditions easily.
Passage Planning and Practical Intelligence
The Greece Ionian Islands sailing guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca circuit works best run clockwise for a motorboat — south from Lefkada through the canal, across to the Kefalonia channel, north to Fiskardo, east to Ithaca and back. A capable 8-metre-plus cruiser with twin 300hp outboards or inboard diesels can cover the whole loop in five days at a civilised pace, seven if you anchor every night. Book marina berths at D-Marin Lefkas in advance — in summer, it is especially wise to contact the marina in advance rather than assume space will be available.
- Charts: The Navionics Boating app (Adriatic & Ionian Sea subscription) loaded onto a tablet or chartplotter is the baseline; pair it with Imray Chart G12 (South Ionian Islands) as paper backup. Imray-Tetra charts for the Ionian and Aegean are widely acknowledged as the best available for the cruising sailor, combining the latest official survey data with first-hand information.
- VHF discipline: Monitor Channel 16 at all times. A weather forecast in Greek and English is given for all Greek waters at 06:00, 10:00, 16:00, and 22:00 (GMT+2). Listen to the 06:00 broadcast before weighing anchor.
- Fuel: Marine diesel is available at Lefkas Marina via a fixed fuel berth and road tanker delivery directly to quay or marina berths. Fill up at Lefkada before heading south — Ithaca’s fuel supply is limited and requires coordination.
- Bridge timing: Until 15 September 2026, the Lefkada canal bridge opens at 08:00, 10:00, 14:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00, and 22:00. Always verify the current schedule with the port authority before transiting, as maintenance closures happen.
- Seasonality: The best time to explore Kefalonia and Ithaca is during late spring and early autumn when the weather is warm and the crowds are smaller. June and September offer the best combination of settled weather, available berths and taverna tables that aren’t three-deep with charter flotillas.
Charter, Own, or Both: Making the Most of This Ground
Whether you arrive on your own boat, a bareboat charter from D-Marin Lefkas, or a skippered vessel out of Fiskardo, the southern Ionian rewards experience. For charterers, opt for a charter company with extensive local knowledge of the Ionian Islands — they can guide you to the best anchorages and help you avoid the more crowded areas. Several reputable operators base themselves at D-Marin Lefkas, which offers the best infrastructure in the region for pre-departure checks, provisioning runs, and technical support.
For owners with boats arriving from the Adriatic or from Preveza to the north, the passage south through the canal places you immediately in the heart of the best cruising ground. The shape of the southern Ionian, sheltered by its largest islands — Lefkas and Kefalonia — also means you are almost always motoring or sailing in flat water. For a Jeanneau DB 43 or an Axopar 37 running down from Croatia, this is the payoff passage: blue water, warm air at 30°C by mid-morning, diesel at sensible prices, and a culture that actively wants you to tie up, eat well, and come back next year.
Load your anchorage guide on the Navionics app before you leave the dock. Book your marina berth at D-Marin Lefkas on VHF 69 or via their website. Plan the bridge transit around the 08:00 opening. The rest, as every skipper who has been here will tell you, takes care of itself.
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