There is a moment, throttling back as you clear the buoyed channel south of the Lefkada Canal, when the Ionian reveals its hand all at once: green-shouldered islands stacked against one another, water the precise colour of a gas flame, the morning so still you can hear goat bells on cliffs a mile away. That moment is the reason the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca exists — not to describe the islands in the abstract, but to put you exactly there, helm in hand, with every bearing, depth, and fuel dock you need to make the most of it.
Reading the Ionian Before You Leave the Dock
The Ionian does not throw the Aegean’s infamous Meltemi at you. Compared to the Aegean, you are sheltered here from notorious gale winds — the typical summer pattern is the Maistro, a northwesterly thermal that builds only by midday. Mornings are often calm, and afternoons bring a steady 12 to 20 knots, sometimes up to 25, almost never more. For a motorboat skipper, that rhythm is close to ideal: depart early on glass water, cover your day’s distance before the chop builds, and be anchored by the time the afternoon gusts arrive.
The islands cluster within 15 to 25 nautical miles of each other — Lefkas, Meganisi, Ithaca, Kefalonia — and most passages between island stops are two to four hours. A capable 35-knot cruiser can turn that into a one-hour sprint; a more considered 20-knot passage gives you fuel economy and time to watch the cliffs slide by. Either way, plan to be underway before 10:00 and anchored before 14:00 — that is the golden rule of the southern Ionian summer.
Two local quirks deserve attention. An anabatic wind nicknamed “Eric” should be noted when trying to enter Vasiliki at the southernmost tip of Lefkada — it rolls in from midday onwards and can go from Force 1 to Force 5-plus in a matter of minutes. And in narrow areas like the Lefkada–Meganisi channel, wind speeds can accelerate noticeably. Your Navionics Boating app — which carries the full Adriatic and Ionian chart suite as an annual subscription — will show you the geometry of every channel before you commit; get it loaded and updated before you leave the marina.
Lefkada: Your Natural Base, Starting at the Canal
D-Marin Lefkada is the Ionian’s main charter base — the only Greek island connected by a bridge to the mainland, accessed via a swing bridge from the coast. The canal approach demands respect. It requires careful navigation: use up-to-date charts and follow the buoyed channel precisely, particularly at lower water levels. Stay within the path marked by the buoys — stray and you risk difficulties, though throughout the channel the depth is about 3.5 metres, so most motorboats have no issues.
The bridge itself monitors VHF Channel 12 as “Floating Bridge Santa Maura” and publishes seasonal opening schedules that can change. It opens for 10 to 15 minutes, or practically until the waiting vessels have passed. Do not dawdle after it opens — the queue of cars waiting on shore means the operator will not extend the opening indefinitely. Once through, D-Marin Lefkada has 620 berths capable of accommodating vessels up to 45 metres in length and 3.30 metres draft. Call ahead on VHF Channel 69 and staff will guide you to your berth. The fuel station sits at the entrance to the marina. In summer, contact the marina well in advance rather than assuming space will be available.
For anchorages, the eastern coast is the motorboater’s playground. Vlycho Bay, just north of Nidri, is vast, calm, and perfectly protected from most wind directions — you will find space even in high season. Sivota Bay in the southeast is a well-sheltered inlet with good holding, surrounded by tavernas that often offer mooring lines if you dine there — ideal for overnight stays. Avoid the west coast of Lefkada unless in a secure mooring, as prevailing winds can pick up during the night and offer virtually no shelter.
The Kefalonia Passage and What to Do When You Get There
Set a course south from D-Marin Lefkada and the passage to Kefalonia is approximately 25 nautical miles to Fiskardo at the island’s northern tip. The island’s geological structure forms numerous protected coves and inlets that stay calm even when open waters are rougher — Mount Ainos, rising to over 1,600 metres, acts as a natural windbreak creating lee shores along much of the coastline. This matters enormously when you are choosing an afternoon anchorage.
Fiskardo is the flagship stop, and deservedly so. Approach Fiskardo at 38°27’31N / 020°34’58E — it is free of dangers, and the lighthouse on the north side of the entrance is easily identified. Entry is into a small, enclosed natural harbour approached in deep water of 10 to 20 metres; the entrance is clear and well defined, with depths typically 3 to 5 metres alongside and 8 to 12 metres in the anchorage area. Manoeuvring is constrained in peak season with vessels berthing stern-to using their own anchor, and the harbour offers good shelter from most directions, though strong northerlies can create gusting within the basin. Arrive early in peak season to secure a quay spot.
Alternatively, drop the hook in the bay on the northern shore. There is a good anchorage for 10 to 12 boats in depths of 10 to 12 metres, taking lines ashore to stainless steel rings set into the rocks — holding is only moderate in sand and some weed, so make sure your anchor is well dug in.
Assos is the dramatic alternative, a half-hour run down the northwest coast. Assos Bay offers a spectacular setting, with its narrow entrance opening into a well-protected circular bay — space is limited to around 10 to 12 boats, with consistent depths of 4 to 8 metres and excellent holding in sand and weed. But heed the warning: Assos is only suitable in lighter air; the anchorage quickly becomes untenable in rougher conditions, certainly in northerlies. For provisioning and fuel, head to Argostoli. Sami and Argostoli offer the broadest services: fuel, water, supermarkets, and ATMs.
Ithaca: The Mythic Island That Earns Its Legend
From Fiskardo to Vathy, Ithaca’s capital, is barely 12 nautical miles through the deep water of the Ithaca Channel. Primary approaches are from the north and south via the channel between Ithaca and Kefalonia, which is deep and clear with depths of 50 to 150 metres mid-channel. Wind acceleration and short seas occur with northwest winds, particularly in the northern entrance — so again, the early departure rule applies.
Vathy lies at the head of one of the most naturally sheltered bays in the Ionian Sea. The main port lies on the southeast coast, entered through a narrow, well-defined inlet — depths reduce from 30 to 40 metres outside to 10 to 15 metres at the entrance, then 5 to 8 metres inside the bay. The entrance is free of hazards but requires accurate alignment; once inside, the bay is fully enclosed and sheltered. In Vathy, yachts berth stern-to or alongside on the town quay, with depths typically 4 to 7 metres alongside.
There is a filling station for boats at Mylos in Vathy — fuel, lubricants, and water. Ashore, the harbourfront is lined with restaurants and shops, and the town spreads around the bay — all reachable on foot from the quay. No tender required; swing your stern lines ashore and step straight onto the waterfront.
For the best single anchorage in the Ionian, a strong case can be made for Kioni, 8 nautical miles north of Vathy on Ithaca’s northeast coast. Kioni is one of Ithaca’s most picturesque villages, nestled in a sheltered bay, with a waterfront lined with tavernas — and three well-lit windmills grace the southern end of the bay, creating a magical night-time setting. Moor at the quay bow-to or stern-to at a water depth of 2.5 to 10 metres; the steeply sloped seabed means it pays to use a long chain. Drop plenty of chain because the prevailing northwest wind will be perpendicular to your boat — the seabed is sand with good holding. The critical caveat: do not consider Kioni in easterly or southerly winds; the swell can get very large, and the holding is not good enough in those conditions.
For a swim stop only accessible by water, Gidaki is one of Ithaca’s most beautiful beaches with turquoise waters — it can only be reached by boat or via a long and demanding walk. Depths increase rapidly, so anchor as close to the beach as possible; around the yellow swimming buoys, the depth is about 8 metres. Drop the tender and head in — you will likely have it almost entirely to yourselves.
Practical Intelligence: Fuel, Charts, and Berth Bookings
Running the Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca circuit efficiently comes down to three things: current charts, pre-booked berths, and knowing your fuel stops. The Navionics Boating App — available as an annual subscription covering the Adriatic and Ionian Sea — is the working tool of choice here. Navionics software is genuinely useful for pre-trip planning; planning in advance means more time on the water and less time at the chart table, and you can download the charts to your device easily. Cross-reference with the physical Imray chart G12 (Ionian Islands, Southern Part) for backup — paper never loses signal.
For berth bookings, Dockwa and the D-Marin own portal both cover Lefkada. For smaller ports, the Ionian’s system is refreshingly analogue: arrive before noon, pick your spot, pay the harbour master when they appear. Expect a mandatory €25 charge for water and power at some ports. For charter operators looking to base here, the cluster of professional outfits at D-Marin Lefkada — covering Azimut, Jeanneau, and Princess models — means you can step aboard a fully equipped motorboat within hours of landing at Preveza airport.
Fuel dock locations to keep logged in your Navionics planner: the fuel station at the entrance to D-Marin Lefkada marina; the ELIN boat petrol station at the south entrance of the marina at 38°49.757’N, 20°42.895’E; and the fuel dock at Mylos in Vathy, Ithaca. The Lefkada station is extremely busy on Friday afternoons when charter fleets return — plan your fuel stop accordingly.
The Skipper’s Calendar: When to Go
The Nautiful Team’s honest recommendation for motorboaters is June and September, and September above all others. June delivers classic Ionian conditions — water temperatures of 22 to 24°C and settled winds. September is many operators’ pick: water still 24 to 26°C, crowds gone, wind softening. In July and August the anchorages fill by early afternoon, quay spaces at Fiskardo become a competitive sport, and the 35°C heat makes any passage after noon a sweaty exercise. Beautiful, yes — but June or September simply gives you more of the Ionian and less of the queue.
If August is unavoidable, depart by 08:00, have your anchorage chosen and a backup identified, and consider booking your marina berths well in advance — D-Marin berths fill quickly during peak charter season.
This Circuit in Summary
The Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca is not a region you exhaust in a week — it is one you return to, reconfiguring the route each time. Lefkada as base and provisioning hub, Fiskardo as the glamour stop, Assos as the secret one you do not post about until you are back home, Vathy as the reward at the end of a long channel passage, and Kioni as the anchorage that makes you understand why Homer set his greatest story here. Run the triangle on a Princess V60, an Azimut S6, or a bareboat Jeanneau Leader 10.5 — the water does not change. Only the platform does.
The full Greece Ionian Islands Sailing Guide: Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca — with our season-by-season waypoint files, Navionics chart overlay recommendations, and vetted charter operator contacts — is available to Nautiful newsletter subscribers. Join us at nautiful.com and we will put the whole Ionian in your inbox, one anchorage at a time.